All the parts printed a 55%, 3 perimeters, 2 bottom 3 top. All parts are printing better in my own opinion, screw holes all have more heft to them as well.
Middle-
-3mm shorter in the z direction, but overall more z direction support, no longer offset.
-5mm wider in the X and Y direction, but the bolt heads don’t hit the rollers now so I think we actually gain 1-2mm.
All bearings are spread further-more rigidity-the only flex I see now is the conduit. Smaller the machine the better more than ever now.
-No more support needed
-print volume needed 135x135x120mmZ
-ditch the 1.75" bolt, 4x3",and 1x6-32" +nut, in trade for 5x3.5". Easier assembly
more adjustable, less tension needed over all
Lock nut is dead simple, no more anti backlash. Hopefully easily adaptable for other lead screw options (not recommended but there is always someone).
Z-
-integrated knob/coupler. less hardware longer screws. better grip on the screw, and not torquing the screw should help not strip the coupler.
-beefier z grip, more true axis?
any size stepper shaft.
coupler is longer on both sides for better grip on the shaft/screw.
prints much better, no overhangs
-shorter leadscrew needed
Mount-
Easier to switch tools. should be able to leave the mount on your tool of choice and un/screw easily from the front.
more contact area, more rigid!
longer contact with rails, more true axis?
Pretty universal. All mounts will fit all 3 size machines. So if you make a mount you won’t need to make one for each machine. less fragmentation!
I would love to test it, but my machine is disassembled (in sections, not completely) to bring home from college in a few weeks. If you still need testers by then I would love to try it out.
Quit making me laugh I’m trying to concentrate. It is super confusing to update a part, here, thingiverse, old thingiverse parts, assembly instruction, parts list…barf…
The worst is when you get some strange printing artifact, and you decide it’s just a fluke. Then you print the same gcode again, and get the same artifact. The worst.
This is what happens when your part detaches from the print bed, but keeps moving around with the print head! I think I was printing the motor mounts this time. PLA oozed up around the hot end and into the fan shroud. It also made it up past the effector plate on my printer, I had to use a torch and a knife to melt the plastic rivet it created to free it.
I thought I should add a picture to this. I think this one is cool that somehow it stuck again and finished the part pretty well!
P.S. The new MK mount is super solid much more than the last one and the fan works much better this way.
So I am messing with the dewalt mount and found something kinda cool. There are drawbacks of course.
If you take off the quick tool change button and that shroud and just screw my mount on to that plate instead the decreased width lets you move the tool 20mm in closer to the gantry center. That is a lot and would significantly increase rigidity.
So I am sure plenty of people will not want to get rid of that button. I guess I will end up making 2 mounts, but this could really help things a lot for those whom push this machine too it’s limits!
While I was taking off the button, I also rotated the top piece by 90 degrees (I followed a guide from a shapeko forums, but I don’t know where that is now). That was nice, but I had to put it back because it rotates that divot in the tool mount too. Just in case you wanted to also rotate it 90 degrees in the modified version…
Well I think I was wrong about the 20mm, It would be less maybe 7, I think I got it in there as far as possible. This is leaving 3.5mm head clearance on those bolts, Just in case other people’s bolts are taller. I have a top mount printing now but still no elegant way to adjust the angle of the tool, I am okay with shimming the dewalt with tape if needed instead of making some giant mount to slightly tilt the tool when tape will work fine.
This mount should not have to be taken off the tool to mount and un-mount it. The top screws on the bottom part will need an awkward screw driver angle but really they come right out, so I am not going to sped any more time on it.
So it looks like it is about 1-2mm closer to the rails from the old one (slightly more rigid). I moved it up about 30mm, more rigidity. More Burly lower mount. All in all a decent improvement.
