The unreliability of the web interface on the FluidIC controller

I’ve been having this problem for several months: I can not reliably run gcode on the FluidNC controller. Some days it will take me 4-5 tries to make a connection from my Windows laptop to the controller and then the connection might last 5 minutes or 5 hours. I can not run a file that contains a tool change because might be lost and I won’t be able to continue the run after the tool change. I keep hearing that I need to upgrade the firmware (currently 3.7.12). They say go to github to get the upgrade; I go there and I can’t find anything that looks like an upgrade, much less information on how to install such a mythical piece of software. Finally I’m told about a FluidNC web installer. I tried that. This is what I got:

I’m thinking about reinstalling the original controller (a real PITA to do). It had a crappy interface but at least it didn’t have the problem of being unreliable.

What about the pendant that was supposedly available?

I really feel like I’m running out of options. When the machine if tuned and the gcode isn’t screwed everything works great except the control.

Please help.
Thanks
Lloyd Martin

That’s a bummer. Let’s see what we can do to sort this out for you.
These systems are not unreliable as a general rule, lots of folks are running without issue.

Here comes my questions for you, these will help troubleshoot:

What was the answer to this question from back on June 19th?

Next up, the WiFi details:

Do you run AP mode or STA mode?
What kind of laptop, with what version of windows?
Edit: Can you please post a picture of your installed jackpot in the machine, showing the board and wiring as-installed?

Next:

Save a copy of your config.yaml if you have modified it in any way.

Nothing mythical about this. As of the day I wrote this, the current release is here:

From that page, scroll down to assets, and download fluidnc-v3.8.0-win64.zip.

Unzip that file to a working directory on your machine.
Shut down the jackpot , remove the ESP32 from the jackpot, and plug the ESP32 into your laptop with a USB cable.

On your windows laptop, run the following files:
erase.bat (this will completely wipe the FluidNC install)
install-wifi.bat (this will install the WiFi version of FluidNC 3.8.0)
install-fs.bat (this will put the default file system back on the ESP32)

Unplug the ESP32, put it back in the jackpot, and power back up.
Now you need to put a config.yaml back on (I suggest using the V1 version)

power cycle the jackpot and tell us what happens.
If you run into any trouble with these steps, come back to this thread and ask for help.

I can understand your frustration. Jackpot isn’t unreliable, so this is solvable if we keep at it.

Is available. There are build threads here on the forums, Bart has a partial kit available on Tindie, and we’ve even demonstrated the pendant running at the V1 booth at RMRRF this spring…

Here’s my build thread for RMRRF, as just one example

And some example pictures from the official RMRRF website:

I have two of the pendants working on my machines and am about to set up a 3rd for a beta machine that is being developed.


If you take the esp32 off and connect it to your pc with a usb cable and it doesnt show up:
Check the USB cable isn’t power only
Check you have the drivers needed to connect to esp32 boards

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That link is listed here in the instructions, Jackpot CNC Controller - V1 Engineering Documentation

I struggled (and still struggle) connecting to the ESP32 from my desktop Windows PC in AP mode. When I went to STA it was very reliable.

Then much, much later I discovered it was very reliable in AP mode from my phone.

This is true not just for FluidNC but also for an unrelated ESP32 application I made.

I don’t know if the fault lies with the ESP32 wifi library, Windows, the Wifi dongle, or some combination. Regardless, my workaround is to use STA mode or phone.

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I’m not sure that STA would work for me because my machine is in the garage where the signal from the router in the house is pretty weak

I installed the drivers for the serial port and was able to download and install the latest firmware. It seems to be much more reliable but it still tends to randomly drop out from time to time, but much less often

That’s good progress.
Still some questions for you:

If we don’t make progress after more troubleshooting, there’s some things we could do about that to make your garage setup be usable with STA mode.

First, can you answer the questions above?