So unless someone has another option the gray wago is the best option. Easy to push good wire angle, handles enough power for power and output jacks. I wish they were a bit smaller, but they do come in different terminal numbers.
The green is huge and opens oddly.
The black is super tough to push and at an odd angle.
The current screw terminals just are a bit irritating to me. People break the power terminal by over tightening.
The WAGO ones look neat, especially if they’re easy to push in and release. Will their relatively low inventory/stock on hand be a risk, or likely cause future delays, do you order parts sent to JLCPCB, or they take care of ordering if you give them a heads up?
Already considered consolidating the 2.54mm pitch and 5mm pitch terminal blocks into a single or couple of 3.5mm pitch terminal blocks? Maybe actual EEs here will have concerns about mixing of voltages from the same terminal block? Blocks with more pins will be harder to over torque, hopefully using smaller screwdriver in 3.5mm vs 5mm will reduce hulking probability too. Maybe cost of fewer parts, and fewer placed/soldered helps lower overall cost too, or helps balance out cost if 3.5mm cost more.
If you end up sticking with 5mm pitch screw terminal blocks, then maybe using 4pin for sturdier hold, and offers opportunity for someone to fork supply for something 24V they’re running. Not likely to be used by most people, so only worth considering for your just right sized board if quite a few Customers ripped out their power terminal connectors.
Specs for ~3.5 to ~3.81 pitch terminals am seeing 16-28AWG. Hopefully gauge on your 24V power adapters are 16AWG or 18AWG and would still fit ~3.5mm pitch terminal blocks?
I like WAGOs.
you should check in with @jono035 - if I recall correctly he likes the Phoenix push in connectors (that I also like)
Are the WAGOs rated for use with ferrules?
250-104 | Datasheet | WAGO | LCSC Electronics, yes, stranded, solid, ferrules. The tiny wagos are solid core only…bummer they are the best.
lcsc does not have many options in those.
it could be, but you can prebuy pretty easily with their BOM tool. I might even use that to get teh price break on a few other items.
which ones?
The power and outputs? Yeah, that is what I am hoping to accomplish with these.
I think the existing terminal blocks are fine. I was looking at all the new BTT boards and that’s what they use. You could get black ones so it looks cool
They are also the cheapest and were trying to make it less expensive
Has anyone else seen Bart’s new Corgi Controller? I just saw it on Discord. He has made a lot of changes compared to the 6X. There may be some things that you would like to include in the new Jackpot @vicious1.
The wagos look nice. I like the angle as well, I’d prefer top entry (I just don’t like wires coming off the sides of boards - much prefer them coming off the top in most situations) but the angle is a good compromise.
I do agree with @dos that being rated for ferrules is a big plus. One of my big frustrations on the 2 channel board from Bart was that the connector was too small for my smallest ferrules. Had too many stray strands of wire cause issues in the past and really like being able to keep things a little cleaner once I picked up a ferrule crimper.
Well shoot, that certainly makes things easier.
Thanks for pointing it out.
Well I stand corrected these are good for stranded as well. 2060-452/998-404 | WAGO | Price | In Stock | LCSC Electronics I prefer these. Cheaper more readily available, slightly smaller.
Intentionally getting these SMD mounted ones, or, getting the through hole versions for the hulk makers out there? If getting SMD parts, would some holes/notches in the PCB’s perimeter be a overall cheap way for zip tie strain relief?
I like WAGO. Somewhere I have a box of the various green WAGO tools for the various thousands Of their products I’ve used.
These are push button, sould be no worries.
I think I prefer not on the board, Never really considered that though. Boards tend to be sharp, probably not a good ide to fasten them there, I like the box side better?
Quick question, for the TMC drivers why not just use 0.100ohm sense resistors if we are adjusting using UART? TMC2226-SA-T | Datasheet | TRINAMIC Motion Control GmbH | LCSC Electronics
Page 49
Lower resistance means a tiny bit less heat from the resistors themselves, so why not go all the way? Currently, we use 0.110 ohm, not a huge difference but why not use 0.100ohm? Is it to keep people from trying to use the full 2A and overheating the crap out of the chips?
The tmc2226 have something like a 7% better heat dissipation (into the substrate). If we pair that with a large ground plane, we hopefully do not need heatsinks??
Am trying out some TMC2226 breakouts after you mentioned them, they came with even larger heatsinks than the TMC2209s. Hoping passive cooling will be enough for my project, guessing the yuge heatsinks help.
I think they only need those because they are on a very tiny PCB, with a larger PCB we can move way more heat.
I do love the larger heatisinks though.
Honestly, was shocked and laughed when I first saw them, didn’t think they’d fit even. Let me know if you want the dimensions. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C4Q1255W
I have a handful, thanks.
