Table planing question

I made a table, torsion box style.
But since I didn’t have a table to start with and my shops floor is anything but flat. The top of the table is all wanky.

I was thinking of putting the rails for my LR3 down first and then let it plane the top of my “table” before I put a sheet of MDF on there and than of course plane that too.

Do you guys think that’s a viable option? Or won’t I be able to cut that low? Basically 1” below the rail?

Depends on the length of your endmill. 36mm wasn’t possible for me. :sweat_smile: 24 worked.

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I’m not sure that word means what you think it means…

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Uh well I meant that some of the spacers are a few millimeters to high. :joy:

Wonky is the word you are probably looking for.

Wanky refers to the act of pleasuring oneself sexually…

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That is something I don’t think my table will do…:joy:

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This is the wonky table in question.

It’s quite study but the top isn’t even. I hope to be able to mill it down so it’s flat all over.

Ps my shop is a mess Im in the middle of a remodel of my shop perfect time to build a LR right?

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How did you resolve this at last? :slight_smile:

I glued 18 mm mdf on it and flattend that.
I kept removing 1 and later 0.5mm until I was almost through it and put my spoil board on that.

It works great even though it’s not the most elegant solution.

I hope to rebuild the table when I remodelled my shop

Can the bit come below the surface the machine sits on? I am still trying to figure out what to do with my design of the table.

Yes it can if you bit is long enough or if you use an extension. Personally I wouldn’t use an extension

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Yes, if you have a long endmill. The collect is not able to touch the table.

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It’s too late now, but the simplest course is often to build the table upside down.

I did that, but my floor is a patchwork and not flat at all

Got a 3D printer and a level? Can you make some chalk marks on the floor?

I happen to have a laser level which is nice for stuff like this, but a journeyman spirit level will do.

Put the level across a couple of supports, anything that gets it level will do and make 3-5 marks on the floor and measure. (assuming a 4’ span for the level) with one end on the same support, turn it 90°, do it again, then the other side. The important thing is the difference in heights, so if you measure say 110mm, 112mm 105mm, 109mm and 116mm you can subtract the 100mm from all of them abd 3D print little pylons. When placed on the floor marks the tops will all be at a level.

Of course doing this with a spirit level is a pain in the patootie, which is why I own a laser level. Well worth the $30 I paid for it

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Just checking in- both of your recent replies have a fairly GPT style to them… can you tell us more about what machine you presently have and what you use it for?

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Apostrophes that are links are a big red flag.

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Obfuscated links to a redacted registrant in BG (Bangladesh)

Raising response to a flag.

There were some posts like these on the Lightburn forum recently too.

I flagged them as well on another topic earlier today. :man_shrugging:t2:

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