Because of space constraints, I was looking at the Sienci CNC because of its footprint. Now that I’ve found this, I’d like to do MPCNC instead.
Is this build sturdy enough to be stored sideways without losing alignment or calibrations? If I can put it on a cleat and hinges to fold away when not in use, then it’s a no brainer for my smallish work area.
This has come up a few times. I think the best solution is on a shelf, flat. You will need space for clamps and such, but storing it sideways I do not think is a good idea and probably won’t actually save much room.
I understand for most it won’t get used as often as some other tools but to save a lot of hassle perhaps finding a tool it can share a table with would be best. One on the shelf while the other is being used?
It’s very awesome. Am I reading correctly that the kit gives me all I need even if I want to go smaller? Just use smaller tubing? Same 3D printer parts?
If I can get it down to 18” by 24”, that might work too, then build a bigger one later.
My next mental block is software. Can anyone point me to a couple of good posts to read? I’ve used PolyPrinters and a MuliCam, but have not assembled a CNC machine. Kinda need a primer for connecting the dots.
You don’t want solid. IIRC, the common sizes are 0.065" or 0.049" thick, with the thinner one being about right for your machine. The solid won’t do (much) for rigidity, but you’ll pay for it in mass. The most important is the 1" OD.
I think this is what you’re looking for, but I can’t remember if Ryan recommended the welded or seamless…
@Jeff - Thanks for the reply. And yes, I have fallen victim to planning paralysis on more than one occasion
So the recommendation is the 1" OD tubing, as opposed to the 3/4"? I am very much in favor of anything that increases rigidity. I’m not cheap, I am frugal, so I have no issue with spending a little more for long term benefit. The #1 recommendation among the CNC users at the Makerspace would pass along is that rigidity is the #1 necessity for accurate milling, cutting and printing.
I’m sure I have places around Dallas - but with work, business travel and that I have gone back to school (which sucks in your 40’s) sometimes shipping and kits just make life easier So @Ryan - please keep the kits updated! I appreciate the option of keeping the 3D parts separate to print on my own.
I’m ordering my 3D printer today. Once it gets here I’ll start making parts…and once my MPCNC is assembled, we’ll print one for my father in law…it’s going to be addictive!
@Ryan - start looking for inquires from Dallas…a thread I’m in at my Makerspace is gaining a little traction. I’m promoting your site to get some local build support going. I’m also trying to get interest started at the Plano Makerspace as well.
There are no parts that fit that size, 23.5mm OD fits 3/4 emt conduit which is measured by the ID. If you want stainless you want 25.4mm (1") OD for sure.
I am 100% always trying to improve the builds, I know on that side of my computer screen it might not seem like it but I have heaps of things here I have tried and didn’t like, promise. I spend the money and time so you all don’t have too. High five on the printed parts.
I was an old fart at school, at times it’s awkward but it makes it easier to talk to the professors usually.
I actually saw that happening yesterday, I knew who you were when I read this thread. I am glad to know my design won you over, the other machine has some serious press behind it, that is something I am not good at, self promotion…but I am trying to learn. Mine got a ton of press in the beginning as well, but in this quickly evolving field longevity really seems means something. So you spreading the word about this really means a lot to me, It is the best way to help keep this boat afloat and improving/evolving.
As Ryan said, there are three sizes, 1" OD, 3/4" ID EMT (US) and some sort of international EMT pipe (25mm, I think?). That’s the one thing that’s pretty hard to change. If you can afford the 1" OD Stainless, then that’s the right choice. It will be very rigid.
Yeah, but… There’s a diminishing return after a while. Once it’s rigid enough, then more rigidity comes at the high cost of heavier parts, then you get things that are rigidly not-square, or needing larger motors, which gets more expensive, especially if you leave the envelope of cheap 3D printer parts. Not having something rigid enough is definitely a non-starter. But just because you can shove it doesn’t mean it’s not rigid enough. With the right settings, the finishing passes should cut like butter, and you don’t need a bull dozer to move a bit like that. You don’t have to have the settings perfect to cut wood accurately with an MPCNC, especially in the smaller sizes.