Hello, I’ve got a square spindle coming, and it looks like the LR3 core is made for circular type ones. I was wondering if I need to modify the core to work with a square spindle or it can be done with the mounts.
I haven’t printed my core yet, want to know before I do that.
VEVOR Spindle Motor 7.5KW Square Air Cooled Spindle Motor ER32 Collect 18000RPM& VFD Variable Frequency Drive 220V 7.5KW for CNC Router Engraving Milling Machine https://a.co/d/2WjsAaY
Holy cow 220v spindle!!! Did you buy that for the lr3, or just happen to have it? Do you have a requirement for that kind of power?? Tim Allen would be proud, more power!!!
Not in massive rush to upgrade, so scaling things up will be ok. Wish I went for the 200mm mgn12 though. I figured I’d have to make parts myself, we will see how it goes
I have a 220v line from where washer/dryer used to be. It’s just sitting there so may as well put it to use. I really wanted something I could do ATC with but they were too pricey :<
So would this be a decent time to swap the tubes to 80x40 C rail?
No idea, but I figured when I upgrade spindle better to go big. That’s sort of what I’m looking at though. I’ve already got 2060 rails on the side of my table
Just have to see how big it is when it arrives, too late now :>
Yeah, I thought the same. I wanted to flatten slabs of redgum and went for a 1.7kW router.
It was too big for the LR2 and a couple of the 3D printed parts cracked.
A quick comparison. Currently, the most popular “spindle” for the V1 machines is the Makita 700 series compact router. In terms of power, the router is roughly equivalent to a 1KW spindle. It weighs 3.1 pounds. The weight for your specific spindle is not listed, but similar spindles weigh between 30 lbs. and 40 lbs. The biggest spindle I’ve seen on a V1 machine is 2.2KW and weighs around 11 lbs.
My bridgeport mill has a 2hp (1.5kw) motor and my 14x40 lathe has a 3hp (2.25kw) motor. I know it’s not apples to apples, but those are huge cast iron steel cutting machines. 10hp (7.5kw) is far more spindle than you could even use with a stronger machine like an avid or something like that. The z axis steppers and gantry will likely have a hard time holding it up, plus that take a lot of power. You’d need a dedicated 40-50 amp breaker, 8ga or thicker wire, on 240v just to run to that.
“The biggest spindle I’ve seen on a V1 machine is 2.2KW and weighs around 11 lbs.”
Aren’t even 2.2kw spindles considered a bit big for a lowrider?
The whole package for this is 44lbs, so I would guess half is probably the VFD, I do have one nema23 and one Nema 32 or 34 with a driver for each. I was thinking of trying to lay the spindle onto my current lr2 and seeing if I can move it.
Another consideration is if the z will be able to hold it.
That is also true, I was looking at 2.2kw water cooled but was told to stay away from water.
I’ve got this line (the cutoff one) that’s 220v that was for a dryer.
If you move forward with the 7.5KW spindle, I love to hear about how it turns out…success or failure. Before upgrading to Nema23/32/34 motors, there are a couple of things you can try. First you can go with 1-start lead screws for the Z axis. This should give you a 4X increase in lifting power. Second, run your machine at a higher voltage than 12V (if you don’t already).
You should be able to mill out an adapter plate. One set of holes to attach to the lr3 core (maybe countersunk to prevent interference) and another set of holes to accept the bolt pattern of the spindle.
Some problems are easy to predict, like the Z motor strength, and some are maybe hard to predict. Lr3 uses gravity to hold the y axis straight, and acceleration could possibly cause the whole thing to topple.
I’m already going to be making some decent changes to it since I plan on really utilizing the 6020 extrusion on my y axis. I’ve got a bunch of polycarbonate v wheels I’ll probably use.
I assume the 44lbs is the vfd+spindle.
For me i can visualize how things will go together but taking weight into account is a whole other matter. As I said the thing is already shipped so just have to take a look and return it if needed.
It’s definitely a lot beefier than I was expecting that’s for sure :>
Made first aluminum plate for lr3, fucked up countersink for c rail so gonna need to do another. But it came out quite nice. I screwed the plate down, then cut the holes, then I put 3 screws into some of those holes to keep the part in place while I cut it out.
And added my parrot with v bit while I was at it :>