I thought there was a native Linux build for repetier host.
But I use cncjs anyway. Or pronterface.
There is but that was my issue with estlcam and using wine. I will check out cncjs as well.
Core finished printing today and all the parts are officially finished
Last night worked on adding just the bearings to the trucks and making sure they slide nice on a rail.
I am behind on my table build I couldn’t decide how I wanted it but it is coming a long now and think I have finally decided. Tonight I Worked on laminating x2 2x4s for each leg to make it more sturdy and hopefully work on the top frame tomorrow and attach the legs and wheels.
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On your cover you may think about using metal studs for the frame work. They are much lighter than pine lumber. Also look into Homasote for the outside of the cover. It is a soundproofing product that is lighter than drywall/plywood. I little funky to work with since it is a cellular fiber material.
They sell it at Menard’s and Lowes or you may check out their website for local retailers.
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The heat/humidity has slowed me down some. Really need an air conditioning in the workshop.
Got the table together. Going to add a sheet of osb then 1/2 MDF to the top. Not sure what I am going to do with the space underneath yet
Believe me, I feel your pain with the heat. I worked for years in my garage in the same conditions.
FYI, I installed a Mr. Cool 1.5 ton unit from here. At the time I bought it earlier this year, it was just under $1500 including shipping and taxes.
I am in Texas with 100% humidity and lots of summer days with 100+ degree temps. I highly recommend this DIY unit. It comes precharged with freon in both the unit and lines. It is a very simple 3 hours install. The indoor unit hangs on a metal bracket on the wall. You cut a 4 inch diameter hole in your outside wall to run the lines to the outside unit. Put the outside unit on a couple of concrete step stones or mount it on your wall. It reuires 220 volts to be run to a disconnect on your outside wall. After that, just connect the lines and power it on.
I have a 20 x 24 garage with 10 foot ceilings, no insulation in attic or garage door and this unit cools it with no trouble. In fact, it is whisper quiet, you cannot hear anything while it is running inside or out. It is a heat pump as well, but I haven’t used the heating yet. 20 SEER rating makes it cheap to run as well.
It has a turbo mode that will go from a open garage door 100 degree heat 3PM time, to closed garage door, 80 degree cool in under 5 minutes in my garage. I should have purchased this before ANY tool I have in my shop. It would have no problem keeping the temp at 70 if you wanted but I don’t like it that cool.
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Thanks for that link I will look into something like this for the future. The humidity gets bad in my garage as well.
Mini split for the WIN. Friend of mine has one in his gun shop and can’t say enough good things about it. Definitely putting one in my next house. Might even take them for the whole house if they can get the coverage right. Builder rep said they don’t work well out here in AZ, but that doesn’t make sense so I’m trying to find out if she just meant that most people don’t use them.
We hit 110 this weekend and the only way my primo actually got built was me soaking my shirt and working in front of a fan.
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All squared up, I measured diagonally probably like a hundred times every time I tightened something 
It is spot on however my one corner is off like .90mm from the opposite corner and sitting kind of funny will have to try adjusting it some may need to check the pipe it may have a little lip on it or just need a little wiggling.
How can your print takes so long? I just tried to check how much time it would take to print it on my slowest printer, the slicer (usually accurate within 5%) tells me only 18 hours in total!
Something is quite far off on your 3D printer, you can print much, much faster than that, with much better results too (your print surface looks very rough and inconsistent).
No offense intended of course, just want to help you to wait less next time!
By the way @vicious1, Kisslicer tells me that there are a few mesh errors with the central carriage, maybe you should have a quick look with some mesh fixing tools just in case.
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Guess it’s a good thing you don’t have to look at it 
. No offense…
Anyway, I briefly explained my settings in my first post but probably had to do with my wall count and top/bottom layers. I am satisfied with the results have I seen better yes, have I seen worse yes. If you really care about my settings and want to look at them I can post screenshots.
Edit: Going back and looking at my speed my infill speed was 58mm/s however my wall speed and top/bottom layer speed was only 29mm/s so that’s probably the reason right there. I used a profile I use for printing smaller items that I am successful with and just changed a few parameters (layer height, infill I think is all actually).
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Looks good to me. Dui is spoiled because he has a 3D printing expert that lives in his house. 
The rest of us are pretty happy with making an object appear out of thin air that works, even if it takes days.
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Sorry, my point really wasn’t to brag or being harsh, it was to say that he shouldn’t have to wait for two days to get his print done. Most people are afraid to crank up the speed because they think print quality will drop, but most of the time this isn’t true (up to some extent of course, but the limit is high). Apparently here it was a wrong slicing setting so that explains it
My only intention was to help if I could, I have some friends who thought that waiting 5 hours to print a benchy was normal, until I showed them it wasn’t. They just didn’t know, and it was the same for me when I started a few years ago !
As for the print quality, yeah it isn’t horrific at all, not sure why I said “very rough” when I meant “a bit rough” so my apologies for that.
Seems like you have an inconsistent extrusion for some reason. Slight over extrusion maybe?
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I tend to optimize for: 1. Success, 2. Quality 3. Speed. I just don’t use my printers 100% and in my projects my printers are often faster than me anyway.
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It’s all good. Ya I probably could have tweaked my retraction some. The profile I based it off was one I use for .2mm layer height or lower I really don’t print larger layer heights at all and when my first test print came off I was like looks good enough for me for a functional print so I just went with it.
In reality I probably should have experimented with a larger nozzle and settings but I was just to eager to start printing
Hopefully this weekend I will be drawing my first crown 
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Your prints look better than mine so y look ur good to go and once it’s working its beautiful artwork anyway 
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There are plenty of test objects available, like Benchy to the Nth degree, but I’ve seen very few setups for tuning other than trial and error. There are temperature towers, and the linear advance stuff is typically tuned by sweeping the parameter space, but these are the exception.
Someone needs to make a tuning regimen that sweeps all the major parameters to pick optimal values, which in general could be different for different filaments. I started on a test pattern generator for this but it requires a substantial amount of work.
Sorry for the lack of update have gotten it all together last week. Up and running with the test crown.
Still on my to do list…
- install a spoil board. Thinking about lamenating two 1/2 pieces of MDF together.
- Repiter-host to recognize the machine on Mint
- Adjust my dual endstops
- Figure out my cable management (this is what overwhelms me the most) Pure chaos currently
- Build an enclosure
My mpcnc spoil board is two half inch mdf boards just screwed at the corners, no glue. The bottom one just raises the real spoilboard up. I countersunk the screws, cuase I tend to try to cut them otherwise…
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PLA+ also goes liquid quickly if it gets a bit too hot, I learned the hard way.