lemme see it!
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I’m not running an SKR board myself but this looks correct to me based on lots of other posts to the forums. Power for logic can be separate from power for motors, but if you’re using the same DC supply for both you need to add the jumpers between the sets of terminals.
You’re always welcome to claim that the eucharist has real presence, but if you come dragging with an understanding based on aristotelian anti-materialism, I’ll surely send some pitchforks!
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Well, niether Google Translate, nor the dictionary helped me understand that one…My “higher” education has failed me.
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Nope. It is all in the public:
I was new here too once.
I have some admin ability, so I suppose I could go fix those links, but I will leave them just to show I also could not post an image the first day. Although that was a different forum system back then.
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I got everything hooked up, flashed the screen and the board but I can’t get my steppers to respond. I am trying to test their movement from the txt screen… not sure what I’ve done wrong
The black cable only works for the touch side of the screen, the gray cables are for the Marlin side. Best to plug in all three and use the marlin side.
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I had the grey cables hooked up originally and still had No movement. One thing I noticed when I tried to flash the Marlin bin file I did not see any green lights. I’m going to try a different as card today and see if that’s the issue.
After you thought it should have flashed, did you check if the files had a new extension? That can also tell you if things were successful before you go trying another card.
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I would say no. I’m not sure how to do that… can you explain for me and I’ll give it a try
Sure:
When you unzip the file you have a .bin file. Rename to FIRMWARE.bin, and save it to the MicroSD for the SKR Pro board
After you think the flashing has completed, put the SD card back in your computer and the file will change extensions when a successful flash happens.
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Do I need the entire marlin file or just the firmware file?
Just the bin will do it - one file for the SKR and then another for the screen.
You’re building an MPCNC, is that with or without end stops? Which of these files are you trying to load:
- V1CNC_SkrPro_2209- *** *** Ready for series wiring on any CNC build.
- V1CNC_SkrPro_Dual_2209- *** *** Ready for dual end stops on an MPCNC (X & Y axes).
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I’m using the 2209 for series wiring
The bin extension was not changing. I swapped out the SD card and success!
Now I need to figure out how to power the Makita router from the control board so I don’t have to manually turn it on and off when working.
Off to do some more research! Thanks everyone
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I built mine on January 1st of this year. I also am a RANK amateur and would suggest to start maybe just manually turn on the router. The number of mishaps I have had moving the head and having momentary lapse of brain activity, if the power came on automatically, I would have had a few hospital visits and they would be calling me stumpy. 
Someday I will look into automating the spindle but not yet there…not huge downside of starting out manual IMHO
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I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again, we’re building computer controlled robots that actually have the capability to kill us. Assume that they know how (or are learning fast), and treat them appropriately. Granted, I’m usually going on about the risk of unattended machines starting fires, but automated spindles removing digits would also apply.
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I’m planning on using a series of relays for the board I’m building. Having a small relay that activates with the microcontroller logic level voltage that in turn activates a much larger relay that handles the voltage to the Makita router. You just need to make sure the G code has the on/off commands for the spindle.
What the hell kind of bits are you guys using? I’m using 1/8" at the largest and it would take quite a bit of effort to cut off a whole finger.
That’s not saying it couldn’t do significant damage though…