I put a laser on my LR3 a couple years ago. If you’re running everything at 24V, it can be helpful to ensure the laser also runs at that voltage. You didn’t state which controller you’re using but both the Marlin (SKR Pro) and FluidNC (Jackpot) boards have pins that can be used for the laser. Some mount their laser board to their machine, but I chose to splice the cable to connect the power and signal pin.
Other than that, you’ll want to look at the goal for the laser. Engraving may be better with a lower power laser. If you’re doing through cutting, you’ll want to go higher.
I’d also strongly recommend a honeycomb or other laser-work-support plan to keep the laser from burning the spoilboard and creating char on the workpieces. I used a baking rack on a cookie sheet from Dollar Tree for a while, but even that left a lot of pieces down to create a lot of char. I’ve since invested in a true honeycomb and it’s better.
I’d also highly recommend Doug’s kinematic holder for the LR3. I found it to be the best way to mount the laser. And lastly, I run a small tube up for air assist, which is connected to an industrial strength aquarium pump (6L/min) although a true air assist unit would be better (but pricier.)
I use this laser: Ortur
I use a pump like this: Pump
Kinematic Tool Holder by Doug at Design8Studio
There are guys here that can chime in if it is unclear how to wire your laser. I run 24V up from a supply hung below the table so I had plenty of power for the laser. If you run off the V1E supply, you may need to mount the laser power supply in the beam as well.
Good luck. I’ve never regretted my laser investment. Its so cool to be able to cut something, then give it a finished look with some laser details.