I have a Lowrider 3 cnc router. I’m completely lost as to which laser I should buy. I see the Neje E80 as the “tim the tool man” option. Can I just add it as a tool? Or do I need to use another controller?
I really have no idea where I need to start. I see Neje offers 6w 12w 24w etc., but when I look on Scamazon, they offer 40watt, 50 watt etc. Am I comparing banana’s to carrots?
Seriously have no idea and my googleFoo on laser cutting is genuinely lacking.
Not a expert on lasers. But what I have learned is the Chinese lasers tend to mislead you on the laser power. When they say tilt is a 40 watt laser, it is really a laser module that consumes 40 watts. The laser output is most likely in the 2 to 10 watt range you have to really read the spec carefully. Look for the optical laser output.
I put a laser on my LR3 a couple years ago. If you’re running everything at 24V, it can be helpful to ensure the laser also runs at that voltage. You didn’t state which controller you’re using but both the Marlin (SKR Pro) and FluidNC (Jackpot) boards have pins that can be used for the laser. Some mount their laser board to their machine, but I chose to splice the cable to connect the power and signal pin.
Other than that, you’ll want to look at the goal for the laser. Engraving may be better with a lower power laser. If you’re doing through cutting, you’ll want to go higher.
I’d also strongly recommend a honeycomb or other laser-work-support plan to keep the laser from burning the spoilboard and creating char on the workpieces. I used a baking rack on a cookie sheet from Dollar Tree for a while, but even that left a lot of pieces down to create a lot of char. I’ve since invested in a true honeycomb and it’s better.
I’d also highly recommend Doug’s kinematic holder for the LR3. I found it to be the best way to mount the laser. And lastly, I run a small tube up for air assist, which is connected to an industrial strength aquarium pump (6L/min) although a true air assist unit would be better (but pricier.)
There are guys here that can chime in if it is unclear how to wire your laser. I run 24V up from a supply hung below the table so I had plenty of power for the laser. If you run off the V1E supply, you may need to mount the laser power supply in the beam as well.
Good luck. I’ve never regretted my laser investment. Its so cool to be able to cut something, then give it a finished look with some laser details.
There are a number of people on this forum that use NEJE products on their V1 machines. Personally, I use a NEJE A40640 on my Primo. Wiring is easy, though you have some decisions to make.
First, need to decide how you will power the laser. The E80 is a 24V module, so you could use the same power supply as your Lowrider assuming it provides enough amps. The power supply provided with the E80 is 5A, so, to run both, a power supply around 5A more than the default for the Lowrider would be the safe course. The E40 and the A40640II laser modules have half the laser (optical) power of the E80 and run on 12V, so you would need a separate power supply for these modules. I run a 12V control board, still elected to use a separate power supply for my 12V laser module.
The NEJE modules come with a companion board. The companion board is not required but makes wiring easier. When using the companion board, except for lengthening wires, set up is plug n’ play. If you use the companion board, you must decide where you will mount it. It can be mounted to the core and the wires to the power supply lengthened, or it can be mounted with your CNC control board and the wires between the companion board and the laser need to be lengthened. When you lengthen wires, I suggest using a heavier gauge wire than the original wires for power and ground to mitigate voltage drop.
If you do not use the companion board and are using a separate power supply for the laser, you need to make sure you share the ground between the laser and the CNC control board.
If you shop beyond NEJE, be cautious about the specs. You want to always compare optical power. Also, there may be wiring issue with some of these modules, so you might want to run your selection by the forum.
For generating the g-code, almost everyone uses Lightburn. The is a paid app (currently $99). You can also make a much smaller yearly payment (beyond the first year) if you want to continue to get updates, but you are not required to update.
Other things you will need:
Sheet metal to protect your spoil board.
Honeycomb bed to lift the work for faster and cleaner cutting