Would extrusion across the top front help, hinder or make no different to performance? e.g. the blue markup in pic below.
Trying to figure out if/how to add front extrusion as I make an enclosure. Wondering if front top X extrusion was intentionally omitted to avoid over constraining, and potentially putting force/resistance on the rails if the frame isn’t precisely cut an assembled square.
If front top X extrusion negatively impacts performance, then I’ll figure some way to enclose that’s flexible/less-constraining, and doesn’t resonate much, some how…
You’d have to figure out how to clear the two belt tighteners.
I have not seen a need for a top extrusion on my printer. I think it’s why the bottom one is raised up is to help center the top and bottom of the side plates.
My plan is to run a top extrusion in my lid, but it will be higher up so that it’s easier to see the extruder. I also don’t want to have to reach over/around a top bar when working on the extruder.
My front plate goes to the top, and therefore adds some constraint, but not all the way across. I like having that top front part open so that I can see and reach into the printer.
The tensioners and the print fan are in the way, for exactly where you drew it but you could put one higher.
I don’t think there is any need for it. There is no belt tension between the parts and the frame should be plenty rigid. The only thing that might come into play is accelerations. It would be cool to print a ringing test at the rear of the bed vs the front and see if there is any difference.
My gut wants a bar there as well but it is really nice not to have anything in the way.
Cheers for the input, agree with you guys that open front is convenient. Will try assembling front door, and separate top lid without front top X extrusion/bar.
Doing some tests to see whether helps or hinders perf would be nice, maybe built in adjuster to help tune and make up for my inability to make accurate extrusion cuts. Am not doing this anytime soon.
I have my v4 and an Ender 5. The E5 has that cross bar, and I hate it. Problem is, I put a “dual” Z kit on it, and without that cross bar, everything is just flopping around.
I’ve been wanting to convert that E5 to CoreXY, and as I look at it, it looks like most of the parts from the V4 would just drop in place. The only catch is going to be the belt tensioners. I’m thinking though that I may just use my grinder to grind a couple of slots for the bolt to fit through, and skip the printed part for now. The bolt (and washer) would press against the extrusion for the negative pressure.
I’m not sure if it will work or not, but I’m going to try it. If it works, it’s only temporary until I convert it to a 3 point leveling setup. If it doesn’t work, then I guess I’ll just have to update my timeline about the 3 point leveling.
