Making progress, but still not ready to cut.
Also, am struggling to let go of the drop table idea. Many folks have made fold away CNC tables. Am curious how many convertible tables are out there? Table where either the middle section lowers (not just a removable sectionable), or, the main top torsion box flips out of the way to expose a drop table setup. Examples/ideas appreciatedā¦
It doesnāt even need to be that complicated. You can just get two rails that are thicker for each side of the LR. Something nice and flat, like a stack of mdf strips.
Cheers for idea to raise LR rails instead of dropping stock. Want to engrave top ~1" of wood surface thatās ~12-20" high.
Stacks of MDF is less crazy than some of my other ideas. Am digging through Duiās and othersā drop tablesā¦
Itās pretty easy for a quick brainstorming session to add some fixturing capability to turn into a big mission with a very generalized goal of handling any project that may come in the future. Looking good so far! I appreciate the photos of a realistic workshop. Thatās what it looks like when you tend to stay focused on making/finishing projects, vs how the shop looks while youāre at it.
You have your X double your Y? This is uncommon as well for a lowrider, isnāt it?
Yeah, this isnāt a common orientation. Probably for good reason(s)?
Ended up here after originally making a Sled for cutting/surfacing full sheets and slabs
Since LR3 is so fast to remove and store, and because Iām long term lazy, or aspire to be. My plan was/is to also have LR3 mostly live, ready to work, on a smaller bench dimensioned for 2āx4ā sheets. A bench that can be used for assembling other projects. Unintended bonus is that itās stand up desk height, same as bar height, so has some other uses tooā¦
This setup is not common, but I liked the idea of trying out a setup that keeps the front clear and clean (no belts, wires, vac hose).
Based on the forum posts, looks like the CNC accuracy for this 2āx4ā area will not be as good as a narrower gantry you often see. No idea how much accuracy/speed Iām missing, I should participate in the accuracy/speed tests when up and running.
Need to address sag in front middle, and still want to make Y rail risers, or a drop table so I can engrave ~12"-20" tall stock. Some how?
Is there any notable sagging in the middle? My thinking is that if I build a 120cm cutting width on X that I theoretically could build a longer table later and start with one that is 180cm or sth like that.
/edit: I am pretty stupid because that is basically your last sentenceā¦ uff. -_-
How much of a cantilever over the end of the table do you need?
If itās for making joinery in the ends of boards, only a few inches, right?
I have an idea that I donāt want to voice for fear of looking stupid, until Iāve tested it. Should work if you only need <6ā
Whatever- here goes
My rail and belt are attached to 3/4ā thick mdf rails that run beside the spoilboard. Right now, they are attached to the 1/2ā top of my table with 1.25ā deck screws.
What Iām thinking is that I replace the screws with threaded inserts in the 1/2ā too, and use 1/4ā 20 bolts to attach the rails instead. When I want to use drop, I unfasten the bolts, slide the two rails
Forward 6-8ā, and then re-bolt. Iād then support the front of the rails (tbd) to ensure it doesnāt sag when the gantry is on it.
Itās an idea. I didnāt say it was a good idea
I have a 36ā X span and I donāt notice any sag. How much do you get?
The only problem with that is recalibrating your Y axis for square each time you move a rail. I think it would be easier just to cut a slot somewhere in your table.
The moveable rails is exactly what Iām doing with my LR3 build https://forum.v1e.com/t/all-the-parts-are-here-time-to-start/35496/4
Mike
If they were moved a fixed amount each time, by designing it as a unit, wouldnāt the stops take care of it (within reason of course, maybe 1/16ā?)
They would but I donāt think I would be happy with a 1/16".
Hi
Just wondering what power supply you went with 12V or 24V?
Thanks
Ron
Hello @rnormore! My V1E kit (ordered ~june 22) came with SKR pro and 12V power supply, been using that, until nowā¦
Was curious about 24V too and recently ordered one from V1E, together with a ESP01s. Not expecting big difference in performance, 12V seems to be plenty based on info from forum long timers, for example. Arrived earlier this week, so will switch over. No barrel jack on the 24V supply, so will use existing/drill-new hole into enclosure, use grommet and hotglue/silicone for strain relief and WAGO connectors.
Will share speed test results if I do any. Cheers!
@rnormore, looks like Ryan already showed off whatās possible with 12Vā¦
Config: {
Power: 12v,
X-Rapid: 600mm/s = 36000mm/m,
Y-Rapid: 300mm/s = 18000mm/m,
Z-Rapid: 65mm/s = 3900mm/m
}
Which honestly seems fast enough, makes upgrading to 24V seem pointless, but doing anywaysā¦
I had my Primo go to 8000mm/min on X/Y planing MDF. Fun to watch, but I forgot to slow down the inertia to 45% or so, down from 85, so the whole table shuddered when it changed direction. 
Horrible ideaā¦should be red!
LOL, will do for my next V1E buildā¦
