Probe has been working just fine. Go to start a new job and I kept getting “Probe Initial” alarm. So my first thought was something wrong with the Gcode. Checked that and all was fine. Took the top off the box my Jackpot is in and the probe is showing triggered when its not. So I shut it down and pulled the wire off of the board. Started it back up and its still showing triggered. No dust or grim in the box. Used it on another job an hour ago and a few before that. Anyone got any ideas?
What happens when you trigger the probe? Anything on the bottom of the board?
Is your probe touching your spindle (stray current)?
So it’s showing as triggered (completed circuit) even when the wire for it is not connect at all?
nothing changes. Light is always on.
Shouldnt be. But its a B**** to pull it and see. Box is so tight It would take me a while to get it out.
Nope spindle isnt on.
Correct
I have it back working now. I move the probe to gpio.39 which is the unused endstop pin and now it is working like it should. That probe pin is still lit up but when I go to change the box I will pull the board and inspect it further
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It could be an issue with that spindle. The VFD’s can be noisy and send some current the wrong way. Make sure the clamp part is on the ground line and the plate is signal.
Maybe. But it’s the same spindle I’ve been running on 2 different LR3s for a long time now and haven’t had a single issue. This is all happening with zero power going to the spindle. I could see it if it only acted up when I was actually cutting but that’s all running great
I wonder if you’ll find a little chunk of FOD shorting out that misbehaving endstop.
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Everything on top was clean as a whistle. And no wires were running directly under that endstop to short out underneath either. So I am not sure what is going on with it. Soon I will be swiping that box out with a different cant be named yet box so I will give the board a very through inspection when I do. All I know is for now swapping the pin to the other unused endstop pin got me back up and running. So for that I am happy 
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A pin dying is worrisome. I think a big enough static shock could do it as well. My LR3 had the vac hose grounding wire poking out of the dust shoe. I used to touch it before I ever touched the touch plate, just to be safe.
I am not sure what else could kill a pin on the jackpot other than physical damage, a lot of static, or debris.
You might want to check under the ESP32 all the little resistor bundle near the inputs are direct connections, maybe something made it under there and is shorting it… Since I know you have run a lot without a lid on the box…
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I’m preparing to repair one of the V1 ESP-32s that JJ had, it snapped off the USB connector.
If that one checks out OK, then we can swap ESP-32s in that Jackpot and see if the problem follows the ESP-32 or the Jackpot.
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Maybe take a photo with as much detail as you can and post it up?
I’d have initially suspect debris as @MakerJim suggested although a 10K pullup is pretty aggressive and the LED current isn’t particularly low so it’d need to be a relatively solid short, not just some slightly conductive dust that had settled or anything…
There shouldn’t be any issue with noise getting into those lines and killing the pin.
I wouldn’t have expected there to be an ESD related issue either, although I haven’t looked again at the layout to see if there are any potential issues there… A 50R/100nF filter is pretty brutal and it’d have to go through the shottky pair to get there, so either that’d be a dead diode in the array or the pulse being negative enough to drag the entire pin negative through the array’s inductance.
Honestly, anything that would have killed the ESP32 pin would probably have smoked that LED long, long before that. If the fault follows the Jackpot, I’d check the diode array to see if it has gone short. If so, that could be an ESD related issue that has slagged the diode junction. If it follows the ESP32 I’d say you just got unlucky and ended up with a junk ESP32. I’ve had a few. If the ESP32 is fine and the diode array tests fine then I’d give the board a clean and maybe consider trying to reflow the pin headers in case there’s a hairline short under them or something.
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I leave for work offshore tonight so it will be when I get back in 2 weeks before I am able to take the board out and give it a good look over. Once I do I will post pics and see if we can figure out what’s up.
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Sounds good, feel free to tag me to make sure I see it. I’ve been enough of a lurker recently due to work getting busy that I’m no longer allowed access into the lounge, amusingly enough. Oh well.
It might end up being a bit annoying but I think it’s always worth chasing these weird gremlins down and finding a root cause. If it’s something where those diodes eventually die due to repeated low-scale ESD events then as time goes on I’d expect to see the rate of issues start to climb. Identifying that kinda stuff is super important for long term product lifecycle reasons.
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Hello guys I have same issue like Jonathan and solved like he did also.
I’d like to prevent it, because no more free gpio. is available.
Any suggestion?
What my cause IDK
Board is clean, on top and under, lid was on the box with fan, I havent check only under ESP
I have Makita router with changed lead (original was too short), dust extraction not grounded.
Always ground it. That will build a nasty charge.
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What do you think about grounding the jackpot to one of the rails?
why?
I looked into this a bit. (I will separate the terms “ground” meaning connected to power rail negative, and “earth” meaning connected to the earth ground pin in the electrical outlet.)
For the electronics, it doesn’t seem to need earth ground. The rails are typically a poor choice anyway, as they aren’t earthed.
I did find that earthing the rails helped with clingy bits of foam when milling it, but the plastic parts still collect stuff.
Earthing the dust collection prevents static build-up that can cause the electronics to reboot. This seems unaffected by earthing the electronics or not. In order to avoid any possible connection of AC power having a return path through the logic board, earthing the board ground doesn’t seem like a good idea.
Major appliances are always grounded. The reason is that if a wire comes loose, touches the case, and it is a hot wire:
- An ungrounded refrigerator case would then shock anyone that next touched the fridge door.
- A grounded refrigerator would short to ground, overload the circuit breaker, and the electricity would stop.
Most of our power is low voltage DC. So grounding the metal parts isn’t important. But it also means that grounding the electronics to it won’t help.
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To be extra secure idk 
I’m asking