Printing V3 Parts - Printer Settings

At LowRider CNC V3 - V1 Engineering Documentation it says “no more than 80% nozzle diameter to keep overhangs working.” I don’t know what this means. What size nozzle is recommended?

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It is the nozzle of your 3D printer. If you have a 0.4mm nozzle, don’t print layers thicker than 0.32mm. if you have a 0.5, no thicker than 0.4mm.

If you are looking for a recommendation, I believe Ryan uses a 0.5mm. A 0.4mm will work fine though.

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You can use any size nozzle you like. As @jeffeb3 illustrated, you take 80% of your chosen nozzle width to arrive at the layer height you need to set in your slicer. Many LowRiders have been printed on stock 0.4 mm nozzles. They have also been printed on 0.5mm, 0.6mm etc.

One tip to consider: if your 3D printer’s combination of extruder and hotend can keep up with pumping more plastic through than normal, you can actually slice for a 0.4mm nozzle as though you are using a 0.6mm nozzle, even though you’re not, and get much faster prints with thicker walls and thicker layer heights. I have done this for a long time now. Some of my printers have 0.4mm nozzles, and some have 0.6mm nozzles, but I slice exactly the same for both nozzles!

What they all said above.

I printed mine at .28 bc that is my favorite line thickness (other than .20) with a .4 nozzle. Takes much longer, but produces a much better detail for parts like these.

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I have my slicer profiles set up more in terms of “layers per mm”

The most coarse that way is 3. (0.333333) and is the way all of my LR3 parts are printed. Thst is with a 0.5mm nozzle, so well below the 80% thickness. I think it produces good results, but looks a little chunky for parts that I want to look nice.

4 layers (0.25) is a nice compromise between speed and appearance.

5 layers (0.2) is for specific models that were designed for it and don’t like to work right otherwise, where things were done to make particular bridging problems easier. I never use it for my own models.

6 layers (0.1666666666) I use for things that I want to look very good. Ornamental knick-knacks and sth.

8 layers (0.125) is for torture tests, and stuff with very fine Z detail. I printed some game tokens with this, but that’s about it.

I have a 10 layer profile as well, but I’ve never actually used it.

I’m working on slicing the LR Core part and want to check my settings. I have a .6 nozzle in an Ender 3 V2. I see that a “rectilinear infill” is recommended, but I don’t have that option in Cura, Also I don’t see a recommended infill %.

I’m considering 2 line walls, 20% infill and .4 layer height. Does anyone see a problem with this?

2 walls should be adequate, IIRC, Ryan recommended 40% infill for us on the beta build. the .4 layer height should pose no problems.

I used cubic infill, Rectilinear is the most basic infill pattern. I don’t use Cura, but I can’t see how that would not be there…

Ender 3 max, so similar setup. Used Cura, cubic infill, .6mm nozzle, recommended infill +5%, 3 walls (this was probably excessive?). But only 0.32mm layer height. For what ever reasons, when trying thicker layer height, my dual gear extruder, temp and other settings weren’t resulting in acceptable quality for test cube and test towers. Also, based on no data/facts, was concerned about parts not fitting correctly if my layer height was too thick/coarse.

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Now I feel like an idiot, I totally missed that the table listing all the parts had a column with the infill % listed.

If it helps… I felt like a smug idiot several times during my build, thinking I had read and followed all the details correctly, only to find I’d fluffed things up and had to reprint a bunch of parts. Good luck with your build!