Printer Skew Correction

Yup, lol, just saw your comment after replying :slight_smile:

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Yeah pressure advance is still on the list to tune. What sucks about that one is every damn filament is different, even down to the color in the same brand. I have a hell of a time remembering to change that each and every time so I usually just go without lol. But for this I might actually try it. Its only 2 colors of polymaker asa, so shouldn’t be too bad to tune

I havent. I dont run hard though, but once i did it, it has been fine and i have been impressed with each print!

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We have a German word for it “verschlimmbessern”, which means making it worse by trying to fix it. :smiley:

I have to admit I was not getting my head around this, and I found this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YfAb5IaHDSo

This is for Marlin, but it really got me understanding this. J

So if you look at the above video, He shows your numbers are great!

Yeah I ended up just turning it off it made it worse and Ryan said this…

Figured if its good enough for him its good enough for Me LOL. I do need to run it again now that I’ve changed the core out and make sure I’m still in spec.

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I will add it is always best to get the physical build as good as you can before doing any firmware skew stuff. I have never used the firmware to tweak my builds. The linear rails allow for enough wiggle room to really dial in most small changes if the frame is done pretty well. Maybe the next version will include some adjustment stuff??

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My original build was all out of whack (first ever build and had no idea what I had gotten my self into lol) but when I redid it and added the side panels I spent a ton of time making sure the LR3 was dead on square to cut the panels and I took a ton of time making sure the V4 went back together as square as possible. I think that’s what lead to getting those numbers without any skew correction. It does take a lot of time and patience but it defiantly paid off in the end.