Hi
I am just starting out printing parts for the lowrider 4, and have some questions in regards to print settings in bambu studio
Do I need 3 or more wall loops or are 2 sufficient? And is setting 1 for fill multiline OK, or should these walls also be 3 layers thick?
Thank you in advance for helping a beginner out 
Welcome @T-stone! Recommend ensuring your printer is well calibrated for dimensionally accurate prints to help maximize joy during your build, and, minimize waste of your time and material. Strongly recommend using Calilantern.
If the docs are not loudly shouting out this sunny happy path to success, please let us know so they can be tweaked.
What nozzle size, and layer height are you using?
Personally used 3 walls with 0.6mm nozzle, 0.66mm layer width, 0.32 layer height, plus alternative layer infill wall. Doc recommended infill percentage plus 10% because extra print time is small fraction compared to time spent using the machine.
https://docs.v1e.com/lowrider/#diy says 3 walls. Also says up to 80% width to layer height ratio, but, lower more conservative ratio closer to 50% isnāt uncommon here.
You want at least 1.2mm Perimeters, so 3 wall loops for a 0.4mm nozzle and 2 for a 0.6mm nozzle.
Azaās additional perimeter on the 0.6mm nozzle would do more for strength than the 10% bonus infill
Thank you for the quick answers!
Nozzle size is 0.4 and layer height is 0.28, with initial layer 0.2
Those look like good PLA recommendations!
I am just getting started myself and looking to start printing shortly. I like the idea of going up in nozzle size for rigidity, but not sure at what point do you lose enough definition to make a part that is no longer optimized.
Would you recommend going up to 0.8mm nozzle size with similar dimensions (50-80% w to h ratio)?
I wouldnāt go over 0.6mm. 
Welcome @Tylas !
Personally only used 0.6mm, that seems to be increasingly common here.
Curious what results the very few people that tried 0.8mm are seeing? No one beta tested printing LR4 parts with 0.8mm nozzle.
I have no idea how much 3D printing experience you have. But, if youāre comfortable venturing off and experimenting, and, accept the time, material and fit risk that potentially involvesā¦ Then, check your extruderās max reliable volume flow if using larger nozzles. Do all the usual calibration and test part printing stuff. Modern slicers are able to achieve variable width via flow and speed, but thereās limits.
LR4 parts have tight enough fit tolerances, that more than anything, itās recommended to use something like Calilantern to check and tune your dimensions and skew are calibrated good enough for a great assembly and operation experience.
Good luck!
I did. But that was before I understood that Ryan has those brilliant āhintsā for the slicer in the part designs.
Many slicers now let you define an alternative minimum shell thickness instead of numbers of loops. Iāve been meaning to start a topic about that, this might be the right way to describe the parts.
The question there is probably for @vicious1 : āWhat is the design intent for outer shell thickness of parts?ā This is particularly important for the big structural parts like the core.
Fair enough, and thanks for the welcoming!
Have a fair bit of experience tuning things in, but more for delicate items - not so much for mechanical parts. Iāll give it a go though, I have plenty of PLA and the printer just opened up so have some free time.
Good idea on the calibration, finally a chance to upgrade to cauliflower V2 (Bambu so no benefit on the tower).
Iāll do a bit of playing this weekend and see if I can dial something in.
Hmmm, that is a solid question.
1.2-3mm wall, if I had to guess.
If you slice and you want to go crazy with it, you have to take the time to look at the slicer output. Make sure there is enough infill and you do not just end up with a shell. In the end, probably not a huge deal.
No. Most importantly it is hard to get full melt if you are using 1.75mm filament. Second you are going to lose some subtle small features.
Thanks Ryan -
Losing some of the small features is my biggest worry, thanks for the reply and advice.
Just pulled up Califlower V2 and put it into the P1S with the 0.8 with my custom settings just to see how it goes.
Iāll probably just start working on the 0.6mm settings that @azab2c uses. However I may make a part in 0.8mm just to see if there is any notable strength improvements (probably not).
Cheers!
Wonāt help with detecting and fixing Z skew, consider Calilantern v2 instead, https://vector3d.shop/products/calilantern-calibration-tool-mk2. Am not sponsored, although thatād be nice, am just recommending because of how much overall time and material itās saved me. I have containers of not good enough to use parts looking for the right place to recycle, but thatās another topicā¦
Pretty sure @Jonathjon has printed and assembled more LR4ās than anyone in the Galaxy at this point, consider using his settings.
Good luck!
He cant adjust the skew on an Bambu printer either way. So just know that your printing it just to see what it is, not so you can fix it if its off.
Yeah, like Jonathan said Bambu keeps any Z skew in their magical proprietary source code so there isnāt anything I can change if itās out. Fortunately from everything I have measured in the past I donāt think I have any issue with it.