Primo to LR4 in Bochum, Germany

Finally I have some time to share with you the first steps of my Primo to LR4 conversion.

I built my Primo in 2020 and had a blast building and using it. The work area was around 30" x 21" (751 mm x 490 mm to be exact :wink:), which was mostly ok, but depending on the material I had to deal with some chatter.

Printed Parts
But when I saw the new LR4 design, I couldn’t resist from converting my Primo. So I ordered some spools of material and started printing the parts. And thanks to my quite new Bambu P1S (which I totally love by the way…) it took only a few days until I could marvel at these glorious parts.

To @vicious1 and all beta users: what a nice thoughtful design. Those parts feel so massive and sturdy. Wow…

I know that it’s not needed, but I printed the core and everything that is attached to it with PET-CF. Purely because I wanted to know how well it prints on my bambu. And boy do they look nice. They came out flawless. Again, great design.

So now with all the printed parts ready, I started thinking about all the rest on the shopping list.

Build size
I going to reuse the table I built for the Primo which, according to the calculator, gives me a max work area of 800 mm x 600 mm. And yes, I am going to build it with X larger than Y. It just fits better in the workshop.

Controller
On my Primo I used a Arduino Nano Estlcam shield, so I could use the controller part of Estlcam which I really like. The problem is, that estlcam shields only have 3 independent axes (XYZ). For the Primo I ran two stepper motors on one driver for X and Y which worked nice. But you do not have auto-squaring, which is not needed for the Primo.
Now for the LR4 I orderd the Jackboard from Elecrow, so no more Estlcam controller. I am exited to see if I like the workflow with FluidNC.
But I couldn’t stop here. I already ordered a CYD and a CNC Handwheel to build @Fab_ster version of the pendant.

Pipes
The bigger the better, so I settled on 32 mm non-stainless pipes with 2 mm wall thickness.

XZ-Plates
While I was waiting on the electronics and other hardware to arrive I went to the next challenge. maschining the aluminium plates. So I ordered some 6 mm AlMg3 (EN AW-5754) and gave it a shot. And hey, I only broke 4 bits during that job, but I finished with two correct sized YZ-plates.

  1. 3 mm 2-flute alu bit: broke right away on the test cut, because the z feed rate was to high.
  2. 3 mm 2-flute universal: broke on the finishing pass of the outline right in the edge of this little end stop finger. It is the only 90 degree inner corner on the piece and the sudden load change was to much on my primo. On the roughing pass I used trochoidal milling, so it was not an issue there.
  3. 3 mm single flute: broke on the finishing pass on the second plate in the same spot
  4. 1.5mm single flute: broke on the finishing pass on the min-plate on the inner edge of the pocket for the x-belt.
    After that I did not have any bits left that could cut aluminium, so I had to skip the V1 logo pockets. Sorry Ryan, but I think I will order some stickers and put some of them there instead :sweat_smile:

Strut plates
With my Primo still in working condition I started cutting the strut plates from 6 mm birch plywood. Because I only had 751 mm max working length and the strut plates need to be more or less precisely 969 mm, I had to do the cut-flip-cut with dowels trick. Thanks @Tokoloshe for the tutorial on that. Worked without issues (no broken bits this time :rofl:). Because my workshop has quite a high humidity, I coated the strut plates with some white paint I had still at home.

Mechanical assembly
I didn’t break down my Primo yet, but was curious if the parts will fit together, so I started assembling everything mechanically. Ryan your design makes me speechless. The tolerances are so good, everything just slides together. :top:
The moment I put the core onto the beam for the first time was unbelievable. The core rolled without any play on the beam. I couldn’t stop moving it by hand. That felt so nice and much much stiffer than my Primo.

So here are a few more pics of the current situation:

On the back of the beam, I will use the back plates by DougJoseph. Quite nice design, but they do not open that good with the 32 mm pipe. Maybe I need to trim down the top a bit.

Enough for now. Next part is to break down my Primo. That makes me happy and sad at the same time…

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Fantastic looking build!

I agree, odd feeling for me as well.

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Dude, what a great looking build you’re working on there. And super nice write-up on it also. All us forum guys love to see the pics of what’s going on.

That’s a good-looking build, nice!

You can use the OpenCNCShield2 if your are in Germany. :slightly_smiling_face:

Yeah, I know about the open-cnc-shield 2.
But I wanted to give a little support with buying the jackboard. And it sounds quite fun to be able to fiddle around with it and the pendant.

It’s nice to have options if I’m going to miss the estlcam controller.

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sieht super aus, coole Farbkombi!

What a great start to a conversion build!
I’m looking forward to seeing more of your progress as you go.

You have some company in Bochum btw. And I also lived in Langendreer for four years. :smile:

While I am waiting for some motivation to tear down my Primo, I started tinkering with an idea. @jamiek did this really cool jackpot box where he uses transparent filament to display the end stop leds in the front strut plate (see his build thread here [Jamie's LR4 RC2/RC3 Upgrade - #141 by jamiek]).
I really like this gimmick, but already printed @DougJoseph gantry back covers and jackpot in-gantry mount. So I cannot use the adapter from Jamie to attach the transparent filament to the jackpot board… and started designing my own version.

I do not have transparent filament, but I do have some old spare toslink fiber optic audio cables. The core of these cables is 1 mm in diameter, so thinner than typical filament, but it should be enough.

Here is what I came up with:


I designed a small adapter that clamps to the jackpot board by grabbing the DuPont connectors and the board itself (see the one mounted to the picture). It features small walls between the leds, so that they do not light up each other (see the one upside down on the table). The fiber optic cables can be secured with a M3 screw. The design is still WIP but I wanted to show it to you and see what you think.

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I think that is going to work well.

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Here is another picture with a better view

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Wow, looks impressive to me!

Just a quick update. I tore down the old MPCNC and started assembling the LR4. Two long sessions in the workshop and the main assembly is more or less done. It could have taken much less time, but my past me thought it would be a good idea to have some connectors near the stepper motors, so wiring the MPCNC would be easier. It was back then, but the XT-Connectors I soldered to the stepper wires with only keeping 5 cm long cables, did not fit into these tight cable tunnels on the LR4. So I had to solder the wires directly to the stepper motors, which took quite a while.

So this is the current state of the work (please ignore the mess on the table).

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