Power issue with lr4 jackpot

Hi, I’m putting together a lowrider 4. All parts purchased as a kit from v1e. Jackpot controller.

The machine is assembled, and i was able to power it on, and move all axis’ with the dashboard commands. This worked for a couple days, messing around in short intervals.

I then plugged it into an extension cord. No power. Plugged back into the wall and still no power.

My question is where do i begin troubleshooting. What is the most likely fault. Is there an easy way to determine if the power brick is bad, or if the controller has been fried?

I’m completely new to cnc and new to circuitry in general.

Thank you for any help!

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Hello, Noah, and welcome to the V1 community forums.

Was there anything notable that happened when you plugged in the extension cord?

I’d start by making sure that the power cord that goes into the V1 power supply didn’t get loosened up in the entry to the power supply.

If that doesn’t fix things, then the next step really needs a DMM so you can measure the power going into the jackpot DC VMOT terminals.

One thing that I note from your picture, this isn’t your problem, but it is something you need to correct: The TMC2209 stepper drivers need to have heat sinks installed on the copper area in the center of the driver.

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As a sanity check, I’d plug something else into the outlet to make sure you didn’t trip a breaker or something. I’d have at least expected something to light up.

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I tried disconnecting the plug from the supply and reconnecting. No luck. Also verified there is power at the outlet. I’m not getting lights, or sounds, or anything.

Nothing weird happened when it stopped working.

I have a multimeter somewhere if i can find it. Would i test at the + and - terminals? What would i be looking for?

Noah

Put your DMM in DC volts mode, put the + lead on the + terminal of the jackpot, and the - lead on the - terminal of the jackpot. If there’s no voltage present there, then we need to pull the wires out of the jackpot terminals and re-test at the wires.

Very strange.

Do you have any other kind of 12V or 24V power supplies around?

It sounds like the (24V) AC/DC Converter (power supply) has an issue.

Is the power cord fully inserted into the AC-DC converter? Sometimes it looks like it is in, but doesn’t make full contact.

Are any of the LEDs on the Jackpot board lit up?

Using a DMM to check for DC voltage at the Jackpot would be the next step after checking the above steps.

no voltage on the terminals when i tested (although accidently i had the meter set for 10V instead of 25v at that test), so i pulled out the wires and had 24V. I put the wires back in, and now i have power again. I noticed the green terminal block twisted a bit out of alignment as i torqued the screws. I twisted it back straight. Is that normal?

It’s working again for now. Thanks for your help!

You may have broken the solder joints on that connector. Get a good picture of the bottom of the board. This happens sometimes, particularly if the wires had been torqued super tight.

If the solder joint was cracked, it can be reflowed. Your picture will show us what happened.

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Okay. I will be traveling for a couple days but I’ll take the board off for a photo when i get back.

Thanks all.

Noah

Actually i plugged it in this morning, and again no power. This time i pulled out the wires and not getting any voltage on them. I have power at the outlet.

With the clips on the meter probes i noticed the voltage goes to 24 when i plug it in, and drops back to 0 in a few seconds. There is also a blue light on the power supply i never noticed that comes on and then goes back off. I don’t have another 12 or 24v power supply that i can find

Noah

Did you try unplugging the power cord to the power supply and plugging it back in? It could be a loose connection like Bartman said.

Yea, I tried that a couple times.

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I’m thinking i should just get a new power supply. When i look on Amazon i see plenty of 24v, 2.5a, 60w options. None seem to have a ground. Does that matter? Can i just buy any one of those?

The plastic insulated ones (like a laptop brick) don’t need a ground. A silver block one like a meanwell power supply should have a ground.

Been there, done that.

It takes a lot less pressure to secure those wires than you think.

That style connector is worth staking, in my opinion.

Next V1 board will change the connector type.

Next jackpot revision should use one of the pinned ones, in my opinion.