Right. So there is progress: I have dismantled saw into pieces today. I have broken one thing while doing it. At the moment fence is not only not-parallel, but also like 2m away from the table.
Await next progress report 
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2m seems like a safe distance…
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I’ve put it back together and tuned as you suggested. I started with making sled’s miter slot parallel to blade and then to fence.
I’m starting to think that biggest part of my problem was my expectations being too high. When I watched all those yt videos, they are so perfect I was hoping to get the same. I managed to set sled 0.04 difference to the blade, ale fence even 0.01, but it seems fence change every time I change it’s position 
Saying that, this is the best I managed to get it squared ever, so I’m happy for now. Thanks for help.
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There’s a danger using tools developed for machining metals when setting up machines for working with a biological foam (i.e. wood). The tools are designed to deliver the number of significant digits necessary for the tolerances in metal machining, where wood just doesn’t hold the same dimensional accuracy.
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Please make sure it never crosses into “closing in on the blade”. That’s how you get boards stabbed into the guts or flipped in your face.
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As I said before: fence needs to open in the back. 
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yes, I remembered about this, so 0.01 was in the "right” direction but as I say - fence just change adjustment after first move. Not a lot, but it does… I mean, this is not high end saw, so kinda to be expected…
I agree. But still I use those, because I want to be as close as possible. However, lacking of experience is not helping here. I mean it would be useful to be somewhere while someone else is making stuff and seeing how their saw is tuned (or how it’s not tuned, and they still make great stuff). I do not have this kind of experience.
As I understand it, lots of European saws don’t extend the rip fence beyond the blade in order to reduce chances for kickback, so if they don’t need the fence at all back there, it should be fine for it to “fade away” from the blade a bit at the back. The danger would be if you set the fence to fade away when it’s on the right side of the blade, it will be creating a dangerous situation if you ever moved it to the left side.
They all do, but the good ones offer the option to pull the fence back. It’s all described in the brochure I linked above. 
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You have to understand, many of us do not speak german.
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You can translate everything with the browser or am AI nowadays. 
Bad Phillip! NO!
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That’s one of the reasons where I’d say: go for it. This manual may save your life. It’s not my problem that you don’t have fancy OSHA handbooks for this stuff. 
We have them. I just don’t read them I was moving stuff around out in the garage the other day and came across the manual for my 5hp grizzly table saw, still brand new in the packaging I also have my riving knife on a magnet strip. I think of you every time I look at it.
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Living rent-free in your head. Nice. 
Use the riving knife…
The handbook of the table saw is much inferior, they just tell you about how to adjust it etc, but not the importance of not cutting off your hands.
Doesn’t work with my close cut insert, and really doesn’t work with the Dato stack when I run that.
If you need to have a manual tell you not to cut your hand off then you really shouldn’t be using that tool anyways. If you choose to still use it then I say let natural selection take its course!
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Mine’s in a drawer with the blade guard. To be frank - the quality of both were so poor (well known US brand made in Taiwan) that they needed constant adjustment and were distracting. Besides
Neither does it work with the sled or the Incra Mitre setup, and the Grrippers are game changers.
(This from the guy who’d prefer to see the z-screws on the LR4 covered! )
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It’s pretty easy with a website, but not with a pdf. I also don’t trust translations for anything critical.
I have table saw manuals in English that I also ignore. So maybe I’m not the right person to comment on it.
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My table was hit and blade out of square like yours to straighten 4 bolts holding table top are oversized and can be loosen and straighten , the blade and fence both run parallel to the slots.
There is an aftermarket system (PAWS, IIRC) that can help you adjust that too. It basically puts screws perpendicular to the existing screws to finely adjust the blade position. Once it’s all set up square, the existing screws get tightened completely to hold it down well.
I decided to save the money and try squaring it a couple of times by hand. It didn’t take long. But some people swear by the PAWS.
EDIT: It was PALS, thanks v3juggler:
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