Hey all. Table is finally built which means I’m doing final squaring. I am less that 1/16th over a 4x8 build at the moment. Could be better, but I noticed what seems to be 2 issues. Before I go chasing better I think I should ask ya’ll.
First. My pull off numbers are 6mm and 15mm on Y axis. That seems like to large of a difference?? Or does it matter?
Second. It seems the closer I am to Y0 the farther off the rail my truck is. Does this mean my rail is not straight? Or is it that my mounts for my Y belts are messed up. (how do you guys ever get them even???)
Measure your heal and toe distances. That is the front and back edge of the YZ plates. I am guessing you have a very different number on each end, it should be identical.
Yeah you are right. Looks like they are 58 7/16ths vs 58 and 9/16ths so I’m off by an 1/8th. The front is wider than the back if I remember right. It seems my YZ plates have a slight bow to them? I don’t know how. They’re Baltic Birch but a square says they are slightly. Is that my issue?
Ok. Gotcha. I’m going to reprint those 2 braces. I had a lot of trouble with my old printer on accuracy and thats one of the left over braces from that printer.
It looks like my rails are slightly long. In the build docs it looks like your example has the rails just inside the brace and mine are at least flush so I’m going to trim them back too.
I have not swapped out the braces yet, so that could still be the problem. The thing I realized is that the farther I go Y+ the better the truck sits on the rail. The closer I am to the front of the machine the worse it sits. I would think if they’re at an angle or something it would be a consistent gap? Am I wrong?
Let’s see some sort of overhead shot, take a look at your belts and rail. I can’t think of any way it gets worse other than it is so bad it is driving itself apart. Which it should not be able to do, that is the whole point of the bearings just sitting on a smooth table.
I would agree. That makes complete sense to me. Only thing I can think of is my rail is not straight. Not really sure how I would accomplish that. I printed a spacer block based on the drawings to try and keep everything at least even. But that doesnt mean its straight.
I have not. I didnt swap out the YZ plates yet. I have new ones cut though. And the new braces printed. Im going to do both of those before I bother anyone else again! Sorry! My mind just got to working over time.
You should be able to use what you have. Sounds like you might need to cut your X rails back a tiny bit though.
From this end it is really hard. You just need to take a really critical look at that area. That should be the only place that can make the heel toe measurements funky.
Tough call, if you cut them exact they can add some stability, the instructions say to make sure this issue isn’t happening but it still sneaks through occasionally.
I can remember what I did, cause I usually do this. I like to sneak up on cuts so I cut them to just over my dimension just to make sure they aren’t to short. Fit everything and then make the final cut as accurate as possible to make sure I didn’t mess anything up. Then excitement got in the way and I just put it together forgetting all about that insurance.
Just curious, shoot me down if I’m out of line here…
Because the end braces seem likely to be the most susceptible to flexing or slipping on the rails if force is applied, have you considered making the end braces wider (more grip, more rigidity) in addition to the increased infill density? This could allow for very slightly shorter rails, while still increasing overall rigidity.
