Newbie to ATEZR 36W L2 - Need Advice

You’ve made good progress. The issues you are facing now are why I would have roughed out the design in Fusion 360 first, but there are tools in Lightburn that you can use. First, you have the arrow keys. The arrow keys, arrow+ctrl keys, shift+arrow keys, and the ctrl+shift+arrow keys all move precise but different distances. If I’m eyeballing things, I’ll often use some combination of these keys, and count the number of each, repeating the same numbers with each set I’m moving. You can set the distances for each of these keys in settings:

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Circles as well as groups of objects snap to lines, so another technique is to use reference lines. For example, in your drawing, you could create a new hexagon by offsetting the inner hexagon by a half the amount of the larger hexagon. Then you can use this middle hexagon as reference for sets of circles, then delete the hexagon after the circles are placed.

Another technique is to edit the position directly. Lightburn has a duplicate command (ctrl+d or right click) that places the new copy directly over the old copy. Then you can just edit the X and or Y position to move a precise location for the duplicate:

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Another way to approach the problem is to set the grid so that the snap points work where you need them to. Making your critical objects some multiple of your grid height and aligned with the grid regardless of the final height of your object. You can always do a scaling at the end of the drawing.

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The last method is a bit difficult and longwinded to explain, so I’ll give you the elements, and if you need this technique and cannot figure it out, I can make another post. On the Cuts/Layers panel, you can turn on/off (Show) lines by color. When you duplicate something, the duplicate, and not the original is selected. You can use a master copy of the hexagon (in a different color) with the holes placed and use a combination of grouping/ungrouping, alignment, duplication with an immediate color change, plus hiding and showing to apply elements of a master at various places.

As for your editing/deleting lines segments, you need to select the object and then go into node editing mode. In that mode, if you hover over a line segment, the ‘d’ key will delete that segment. In the beginning, I was going back to the reference to figure out the keys for the node editor until I figured out that, when I hover over the node editor icon, there is a flyout menu. My clipper won’t capture flyout menus, so here is a photo.

PS: The Bills won! I just watched the highlights, not the actual game, but it wasn’t looking good when NE scored on the opening kickoff.

Thanks for the help/info! Yes, Bills won! I havent missed a Bills game in 33 years! (I’ll be 43, this May). Every season has always ended up in heartbreak LOL but I’m hoping a Super Bowl win is coming very soon! :smile: Where are you located? (What team do you root for)

I’m about to head out to home depot now, to get a bunch or wood for trial runs. As for the blue engraving line, I’m not sure how this will turn out. Holding the earring holder now the “engraving” around some of the hexagons, does not look too deep. This is still engraving, correct? I can’t really tell the depth, so that will have to be figured out during some trial runs. I’ve attached a few photos. This wood is extremely light, but doesn’t seem to be stained. I think it may be underlayment. Definitely feels sanded. (Stupid question here) but am I going to have to sand all these hexagons and etc. after burning? I was hoping not having to go through aprox. 10 of them I’m going to make for family and friends. Does it just depend on the type of wood or just no way around it, I’m going to be sanding?

In terms of engraving, you want to run a materials test to find the correct settings. If you feel things need to be sanded, it is best to sand before you burn. You can also provide a coating (stain, paint, etc) and a clear finish before you burn. If you are worried about burn/smoke marks, you can cover the wood in a mask. This is the mask referenced most when I’m reading about masking, but I’ve seen other things used, including masking tape and shelf liner. The liner will affect your cutting, so you do have to rerun a materials test with the mask applied.

For my cutting, my top surface is usually fine, but my bottom surface often shows some smoke marks. I suspect if my honeycomb had a bit of vacuum under it, I would not get the smoke marks. The smoke is getting caught under the wood. Appling the clear coating before burning can help with the smoke. It often just wipes away.

Of note: all of my laser cut pieces smell smokey. I sometimes use this soot eraser, and I air the parts out…often for a week or two, and I clear coat them to seal the soot inside.

I’m a middling football fan, catching an occasional full game by my team (Seahawks), and usually watching a few highlight videos each week throughout the season.

I have my template finished. I think! Anyone willing to look at it for me and let me know what I need to change? and how? It would be a huge help and relief. I’ve spent two days on this and it’s something so simple. At least looks like it.

I want to try and cut this template and I need to get it to my daughter. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Pop it in a ZIP file and post it, and I’ll take a look.

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Awesome. Thank you so much. I appreciate it. Feel free to change/fix and etc. if you want.

Im getting a message that new users cannot upload attachments. How else can I get it to you? Here is a photo, until i can get you the zip.
HexHolder_CG

first layer, blue, is for the engraved lines around each hexagon.
The second, black, layer is for all the internal cuts, ie inside each hexagon and to leave the three horizontal bars on the six hexagons and earring holes as depicted on my original photo. When those are done, the red layer performs the cut around the outside. Its 0.2mm outside the engraved lines as drawn.

I think i have the width of the hexagons correct.

I cannot give you an exact amount of time, but it is fairly short before you will be able to upload files. This is an anti-spam feature. The designers of the forum software figure that, if you stick around for a short while, you are not spam.

You write about “second black layer.” I assume the holes are a different color. It will take more time, but I would (at least in the beginning) do all the holes first before doing the black or red layers.

Its 0.2mm outside the engraved lines as drawn

If this is your kerf correction, then you are likely setting it too high. A typical kerf correction for these small lasers is 0.1mm. Since a laser cutting on a line will have half the kerf on the inside, and half on the outside, the kerf correction is 1/2 the kerf of a laser cut. There is an interesting site for generating boxes called BOXES.PY. I’ve done a number of projects starting from their generated box art. One of the generators referenced on this page is to check your kerf.

The idea of “inside” and “outside” can get pretty weird with vector art, so sometimes your kerf correction can go the wrong way. One way to check is to first preview your cut, then go back and change the kerf for one of the layers significantly, then preview again. The elements with that layer color will either be noticeably bigger, noticeably smaller, or go away altogether. This will tell you if the object is considered “inside” or “outside.”

I have a significantly lower power laser than your machine, so when I do things like this, I tend to prototype smaller areas before cutting the whole project. I would pull out just one hexagon object, cut it, and take a close look at the result.

When I run the preview it’s 5mins long and outlines the entire thing at the end but it just doesnt seem correct. the holes are black. I only have three layers. Black - for cut, blue to engrave around some of the hex and red to finish the outside cut. When I run debug, here is what the image looks like.

The holes are black “cut” circles.

I’ve never seen the display in this image. Is that a mode in Lightburn?

As for the circles, I was just suggesting they all be cut first before the interior of the hexagons. I don’t think it will make a difference, but I always try to cut all the small detail pieces first. You can put them on a new layer, and put them first in the order, or there is a shape priority and a cut by priority feature.