I am a new user of this equipment (lowrider v3) and I am experiencing difficulties with configuring the Z-axis. It appears that there is already a configuration downloaded on this controller, which is a Bigtree SKR v1.2 board. I have accessed both the touch screen interface and the Marlin firmware but cannot zero out the Z-axis.
I have successfully transferred printable files to the SD card and initiated prints, but the bit keeps driving into the wood. I am also familiar with creating files and projects in the software, and can operate the machine across all three axes. However, I am unable to set the Z-axis to a new(starter) height.
Additionally, I have access the touch plate but am unsure how it should be configured. Is it possible to connect a computer directly to this device for control? Although I purchased this machine used, I acquired several replacement parts from the V1 website to address any potential damages.
Any assistance in getting started would be greatly appreciated.
You need to set z=0 as the tops of the piece you are cutting. You can do this by sending a command from the terminal screen of the LCD or by including it in the start of every file
The normal approach is to home the machine in all axes, and then use the move (jog) commands on your control screen to move it to the X,Y coordinate where you want the work origin set at the corner of your material, and then press the buttons to set your X to zero and Y to zero at that location. At that point your machine knows how far from “home” it has to be for the work origin. Then, nudge the X and Y until you are safely over the material, and if you have a probe macro, then run that, or if not, use the buttons to move (jog) the Z down until the bit barely touches the top of the material, and use the button to set Z to zero at that location. Then you have work origin set in all three axes. If you also take note of how far you had to go in X and Y, then this has an added benefit of you being able to get back to the same spot in case the job gets interrupted and you have to rerun the job as a rescue.
The zero buttons are in another area, I think over in the homing area. It’s been quite a while since I switched over to Jackpot with FluidNC, so I cannot tell specifics, but the zeroing buttons are not with the move buttons.
If you are not using the Marlin firmware from V1E, then some buttons may be missing. Did your board ship from Ryan at V1E? If so it came flashed with the right firmware. If not, then you should download firmware from V1E and flash both the board firmware and the screen firmware, and then you will have what is needed.
The board and the touchscreen each have their own firmware, flashed separately.
Did you purchase your SKR and Screen both from V1? Or are you using a screen you already had with a new SKR? If the second one then you need to update the firmware on the screen. If you got both the SKR and Screen from V1 then the buttons should be in the menu. I know on the marlin (non touch screen) they were in a custom menu that was added. I cant remember where they were on the touch screen. Its been too long since I have used one.
First, thank you all so much. I was finally able to get it to cut. I keep breaking bits, lol, but I think that is a settings issue. I need to check the firmware. I believe they both came from V1, but they may not be updated in a few years.
I use the SKR from V1E, and I don’t recall seeing any buttons to set the locations to 0. Maybe they are there and I just haven’t found them, but I use the Marlin G-code commands from the terminal window.
@Rcj112 - rather than relying on “buttons” to perform actions, I would encourage you to learn some basic Marlin g-code commands to probe (G38.2 Z0) and set your locations (G92 X0 Y0). Understanding how Marlin works will help you to troubleshoot issues with your CAM files, and will allow you to edit your g-code files if you ever need to re-start an interrupted job in the middle of a cut.
On the marlin mode lcd, it is the v1 menu then click into it and it is zero or set origin or something like that. I used one around thanksgiving last, so please forgive the lack of precision.
It really depends on the CNC, the quality of the build, the quality of the endmills, the wood etc. If you start with 900mm/min (15mm/sec) and a DOC equal to the diameter of your endmill, that’s a good and conservative start.
I for instance cut hardwood at 3000-3500mm/min and a DOC of 4.5 to 6mm with a 6mm 2-flute. That’s quite fast, but I have been doing this for a while now and know what to listen for. It does absolutely not work for Satinwood for example.
So, start with the conservative settings above and then try what you can and can’t do. A good start is the sorotec app as well.
This post explains a little bit about how to select a good feed rate and router speed based on recommended chip load for various types of end mills and materials…
