Wire Darryls - lol - love it.
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Sorry mail just picked up.
I swear we all checked that calc several times…Let me have a look, it has to be a misplaced negative.
Hey Ryuan, the hardware list has M2.5x12 for the endstops i presume, but your shop has them labelled as M12 x 12mm Phillips Pan Head Screws. Might want to update that before someone goes and buys M12 screws for the endstops hahaha
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Yeah. I live closer to Wylie Steel and I bet they have the tubing also. I’ll give them a call tomorrow. I’ll probably by 10’ length and just cut it myself at the house. How long do you think it’d take to cut with a hacksaw?
Awesome thanks!!!
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Ryan, I just want to say kudos to you. I’m waiting for the C parts (conduit is working just fine for me and I want to minimize the financial impact of the upgrade) before I upgrade. But I keep looking at the pictures and you can tell just by looking at it and studying the differences that it’s going to be so much more rigid and solid. The longer trucks, the longer corners with more grip on the rails, the almost-one-piece center, etc. And the overall styling and details are just so refined and look so professional and clean. The older versions looked like a hobby level machine for hobbyists. I wouldn’t have said that before seeing this one, but this one just looks so much more professional. Great job. And I’ll be patiently waiting on the C parts.
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Does DOM steel rust easily? Looking for options that are cheaper than stainless, but more rigid than EMT conduit
Maybe? Depends on where you live. I just wax mine.
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Not really no different than my table saw was twice a year or after a heavy use with a good silicone free wax and never any trouble. Mine is inside basement not in a garage though
Only the Burly to Primo hardware kit is available in the shop. Will the Primo hardware kit be available some time soon or should I just get these at a local shop lol?
There is a reason for the staged, slow, roll out.
https://www.v1engineering.com/mpcnc-primo-is-live/
We just found a spelling mistake, a shop screw size error and most drastic was the calculator was wrong.
I promise it is best if you just wait until I think it is time to release a full kit. The CNC is deceptively complicated and we are all busting out butts to make it as simple as possible.
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Okay, calc spot on now?
Metric and imperial look good time me, but we all know that means very little when it comes to this calc!
We are adding a negative number instead of just subtracting the number…I was scared to fix that part in case it jacks something else up.
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I would say half of these upgrade kits do not include belts…I am not happy to see that. I hope people are not buying the “cheaper” 10mm belt on amazon, that is steel belted and will not work…
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Yea, calc looks right now.
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Gotcha. Thanks for clarifying. I am new to the community and so far I am seeing awesome things and awesome support. In the mean time start printing
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Well entering negative numbers doesn’t break the calculator, 0 doesn’t destroy the internet. Still need to test complex values and differential equations.
I think I just got hives…did you really have to bring up differential equations…
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A little tangent: Suppose you have an image, and you have coordinates for a rectangular region within that image, and you have coordinates for an object within that region. And now you have coordinates for a second region that overlaps the first, and you want to know the coordinates for the same object relative to the second region.
I found that doing the math for the coordinate transformations, I would get it the sign right a bit more than half the time for each transformation, and the odds of getting the entire calculation right is approximately zero.
I developed a habit of naming using little algebraic expressions, “objx_minus_roi1x”, “roi1x_minus_imgx”, “roi2x_minus_imgx” that lets me do algebra mentally on the variables. So for example:
objx_minus_roi2x = objx_minus_roi1x + roi1x_minus_imgx - roi2x_minus_imgx
I can visually cancel the terms in my head and the odds of getting it right the first time are much higher, like maybe 70% or more instead of what was effectively zero.
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I usually try a few trial and error, transforms, then I test with simple coordinates like 0,0 or 1,0. Then I finally break down and write them all out. I only get it right after I write it out.
And adding a negative is good, otherwise it will break the burly calculation.
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