Ryan designed the corners and rail plastic parts to allow the tubes to poke out the ends. What I did was set up the base as big as I wanted with the tubes poking out, tested the core travel and then cut the ends off the tubes that poke out. Calculator… smalculator
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Mine does. Probably has something to do with the 200 year old floor joists. They still have bark on three sides.
I’m seeing a lot of people with breaded sleeve over there router cable. With the D660 it has a large plug so I’m not sure how to accomplish this. Do I cut the wire sleeve it and use some twist on connectors in side my electrical box. Or do I take apart the router undo the wires sleeve it then redo the wires?
Hi!
On my current Burly I have my own Corner, Do you think that I can upgrade only the Center Core and keep Burly corner and Roller ?
Is the Z distance betwin the X and Y conduit the same in burly and Primo?
Thank you…
The distance is equal, but you will lose a lot of build area not using my trucks.
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Plus the new trucks dont eat shirt sleeves like the old ones did
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Ryan, this is a lot of info to sort through. I apologize for asking i assume answered questions, but if I wanted to update to the new design, is it a matter of printing the new pieces? Are the bolts/bearing amounts the same still?
I actually planned on replacing a few of my bearings already but maybe ill start printing the new setup and move everything over.
You will need all new printed parts and this hardware, https://docs.v1engineering.com/mpcnc/PParts/#update-from-burly-to-primo
Silver linings are important 
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I just had my sleeve eaten this week.
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I cut mine close to the router. Then I put in a 2 prong locking connector on the cable. This allows me to disconnect the cable from the router and remove the entire Z assembly without having to remove any of the cable management.
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That’s a great idea! What connector did you use?
I used an aircraft connector. on the panel mount side, I just slipped large heat shrink tubing over it and shrunk it down.
Pictures here:
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Hi Guys,
I have ordered the tubes for an Burly for 1000x800 workspace. And just now saw that the Primo design came up…
Can I somehow reuse the cutted tubes for the Primo, as I also just printed few parts for the burly design. Can someone point me some help? May I cut them smaller maybe?
Many Thanks from Germany
Yup have a look at the new calculator
thx Ryan, will do that… any chance of somehow backward calculate the workspace by the given tubes?
Both X and Y are roughly 5cm less. So start with this and then use the arrows to find the right value.
Super got it!! Many thanks for the advice!! And happy printing! I am So excited to build it!
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Sorry to Necro this, but since you have used this, what are some basic setting do’s/don’ts? You said slow… Slower than 1500? How is stringing compared to other PETGs? I might order this up, but want some more info before I try a reprint, or just buy a core from Ryan.
Is the diameter consistent? I just got 75% through the core print with Overture PETG, and when I checked in on the print this morning and saw the bad layers from earlier last night. Looks like 2-3 layers severely underextruded or blobbed, then back to normal. Environment was stable, but when I went back and checked filament diameter over a couple of feet on what was left of the roll, 1.71mm to 1.85mm! My measurements at the beginning of the roll yielded an average of 1.73, and nowhere near that much deviation.
I print mine at 1200mm/min – and only 60% of that for the first layer. At those speeds, stringing is much lower than regular PETg (I started off at “normal” speeds, and it took me a while to figure out why I was printing so many very stiff birds’ nests. ) Though truthfully, the AF PETg strings a lot less than other brands I’ve tried even without the CF addition.
The diameter consistency on the Atomic Filament has been top-notch for every spool I’ve used so far (PETg, PLA, and CF-PETg.) It really is good stuff.
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