I thought that made a co-tangent?
No, just co-habitating tangents…
The crappy part is I have never in the 5 years of this biz been on this end of so much hate so I truly am guarding my hard work until I am ready to run with it. I still get plenty of private and public messages that are far from encouraging to share anything ever again.
I am a noob here, but I am truly impressed with the things you have designed. You inspire to build and create. Keep on going!
Thats cool! I like the clamp on style.
Heres an early video on sensorless homing thats very accurate if you’re thinking of changing your mind https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QKz61DG8Jbw
I have no easy way to check at home, except for my Z axis. I home it (on my LR2) to max with sensorless homing and can then probe the bed and end up with the same readings to 0.01mm from memory. I’m happy to test this for you if you’re at all interested in the numbers. Can run it at different temperatures and stuff and see what numbers i get on my probe to see if it’s about the same? As if its accurate enough, it sure as heck simplifies the design and wiring and electronics!!!
I have an old build thread, but dont go into anything in detail to be honest. You’re welcome to message me if you have nay questions, but im by no means an expert hahaha
I think the easiest way to test the accuracy is to home and then plot out the corners of your max build area and measure the diagonals. That test amplifies errors.
A 0.1mm error on a 5.5’ axis is not the same as a 0.1mm error on a 1.5’ axis. There are a few articles testing the sensor less homing. Interesting I would love to get rid of some wires on the machine but I don’t think it is for CNC at this time.
Hippy outdoorsey car. We had them all over Alaska too.
And i’ve only just started printing out the parts for the last version
No doudt you are expecting a hissy fit
BUT
I’m perfectly happy as it means by the time i have got my first machine up and running. You guys will of found all the bugs in the new version
Funny enough we are having our company cars switched to Subaru’s since Ford is no longer making cars (besides the mustang and one other that doesn’t really work for us).
Since you’re working on the EMT version last, and scaling up is easier than down, have you considered using rigid conduit instead? 3/4" rigid is more expensive than emt (3x approximately) but significantly cheaper than stainless where I am anyway. It’s outer dimension is 26.7mm so slightly larger than your existing builds, but only slightly. 3/4" emt is 6.7lb per 10ft, and 3/4" rigid is 10.9lb, so it would add a couple lbs to the structure but double the wall thickness and increase rigidity. (0.107 in for rigid vs 0.049 in for emt)
That is a solid idea!
Pretty sure I have some here, I will have to take a look, pretty sure I had a few reasons not to use it.
edited to stop confusion from faulty explanation and brain disconect
3/4 pipe or HD conduit? Black pipe is the same size OD(edit as Galvanized pipe not EMT ) but smoother( edit no galvanizing ) again heavier sorry I just got confused with the order of questions
the galvanizing wears off right a way anyway so It should not be any problem
Sorry Ryan got 2 things run together
I just had a section of the 3/4 inch rigid in my hand measuring in our maintenance shop. I tossed it back as soon as I saw it was larger than I wanted.
Honestly EMT rarely looks much better. The galvanization is pretty soft and smooths out with a few cycles on the EMT, probably same for rigid. Only thing to watch for is the seam is turned away from a bearing.
Lots of Suubies in Oregon. My wife has a new outback with a 2" lift and I have her old outback as a “run into town car” (saves my tires on my diesel truck).
+1 for black pipe, very easy to source locally from orange or blue stores, no specialty stores needed.
Not saying it would be better just easier to source but heavier than stainless I think what we have is perfectly perfect because when is enough enough?
edited
YOU want 3/4 EMT conduit
1 inch O/D stainless 25.4 mm OD
ni the USA
or 25 mm OD in most Metric places
Someone might have already mentioned this, but an “old” MPCNC could be scavenged by using really short rails for more rigidity and small projects and the new MPCNC, being more rigid, could use your old, likely longer, rails.