Thanks for the input! I will compare the two nut traps later in S3D by overlaying them. Then I am sure. (this solution didn’t come to my mind earlier. Still in vacation mode as I habe another week week off at home! 
Two printers make it much more pleasant! No filament changes and almost double the output (Kossel build plate is a tad smaller and round. So not so many parts fit on it.
cheers
Armin
Yes. The Z hole spacing is the same between the two. Ryan has mentioned multiple times that the Z nut traps are the only parts that are carried over from the Burly design.
I recut the stainless steel pipes for my feet with a hacksaw. I tried to get them straight, but they differ around ~0.3mm in themselves, so they are not cut completely straight. Am I going to have problems because of that? Additionally, one whole pipe is around 1mm shorter than the others. 
Not a problem really – just means that you’ll have to spend some time leveling your rails
The feet and the top of the legs can be pushed in/out to make up the difference. You can just make sure all your leg assemblies are the same height.
Thanks guys, that is really going to help me sleep. 
I thought the nut traps are different, because they now need to hold M5 nuts, rather then M4 in the previous version. My answer refered to the tubes alone, I missed the part of the question mentioninig the nut traps.
The nut traps are different, made for M5 vs. M4/#6. The Z axis is reusable except for the nut traps. Or if you use the Burly tool mount then the whole Z axis is reusable including the nut traps.
oh. oops.
Anyone accidentally printed with supports, yet? 
Any ETA on the C version of Primo?
My Ender 3 is loaded with PETG and ready to go.
Can’t seem to finish this step I’m on… I’m bolting into my last z trap I have broken 3 of them. It’s not from over tighten because they aren’t even making it that far. Trying a different filament now. It’s just splitting I’m using super glue gel to keep the nut in place. Only thing I can think of is the force of the nut is just to much and pulling it apart.
I also screwed the nut and bolt together beforehand to loosen the nylock.
Printing .4mm nozzle with .24 layer height
Any suggestions?
If you’re using a nylock nut, run the bolt in and out of the nut a few times to loosen up he nylon “doughnut”, before you install it in the trap. Sometimes fresh Nylock nuts can take quite a bit of torque to get started.
Try printing slower and at .32mm layer height.
All done. Woo-Hoo! Everything moves in the correct direction, and the end stops work! I’m about to run the crown test with marker!
Question about end mills though. I was gonna get some 1/8 single flute uppercut carbides for cutting plastics like UHMW and HDPE.
BUUUUT What type of flutes do I need for cutting regular ol wood for making something simple like signs for my kids bedrooms?
And should I get any 1/4" end mills? I notice there are only 1/8s on here. Thanks!
Hey, this is a German shop but they have a great overview over what you need: https://www.sorotec.de/webshop/Datenblaetter/fraeser/fraeser_verwendung_schaftfraeser.png
I will definitely go for a 6mm wood flute as well for some rougher cutting.
If you are still looking for a Makita collet (they only come with 6/8mm in Germany at least) I can recommend https://www.elairecorp.com/makitaroutercollets.html. Seems to be the only place where you can get good collets for Makita worldwide.
I agree with you, it would be nice to have collets for the Makita in 1/8" and 4mm.
I already have one in my shopping cart for a long time. But the price is 24.50$ each plus 14.50$ shipping to Germany.
For now I will continue working with adapting the 6mm collet to smaller endmills.
I actually use the one from Sorotec for my 1/8" endmills. Actually I cannot find this specific one in their online shop any more, only for 3mm and 4mm like in below link:
Reduction Sleeve 6 to 4 mm
I cannot judge the quality of these reductions but I get along with it.
I got this one from Aliexpress:
https://a.aliexpress.com/_d6Yymc5 works well for me. Not sure how much run out it gives, compared to a proper collet, but it has worked well.
But after a while I’ve gotten this one, just to be sure. Don’t know how well they match eclaire, but the price is decent: https://shopuk.3dtek.xyz/product/makita-collets/ they have collets in all sizes
sure it has been said before, but any tips on which infill pattern on the core? know i can do a 70%-30%-70%, but not how in cura, been googling it, but dosen`t seem to save more that 19min om print time:P surly im doing something wrong:P
Try prusaslicer! Don’t know the cura settings
