With CAD once you understand what you want to do, or how it needs to get done. Switching programs is just a matter of finding the buttons again. Cut, extrude, mate. Learn any of the higher level programs and you will be fine using any of them.
Just to make Barry smile, he wanted Darryl bad.
I wanted Cutty Mc Cut Face
MPCNC CMcCF…doesn’t roll off the tongue.
Thanks for that! The reason I ask is I have free hobby access to Solidworks through membership in an aviation group of which I’m a lifetime member. In fact if anyone would like it I just checked and membership is apparently on sale now for $40/year at EAA.org.
I learned some CAD ~20 years ago on MasterCam VIII and found it very intuitive to use, when ‘upgraded’ to X, not so much. Still looking for a free hobby type program that’s similarly intuitive. I don’t think there’s any objective measurement for what’s ‘intuitive’, just gotta try stuff on until something fits.
For some reason when I posted that last comment, I was thinking of 3d printing. Maybe it’s because with the primo upgrade, this was been all about 3d printing.
Fusion 360 is far better for actual mpcnc work because it has CAM built into it and somebody has made a post processor for the mpcnc. Post processors are how fusion 360 writes the g-code for the machine.
So designing something for the mpcnc (3d printing) can be really be done on either platform. But if you want to design something that the mpcnc itself will make, fusion is best.
How about Cuts Nice cutting pretty machine
MPCNC CNCPM
Doesnt beat Cutty Mc CutFace
What are the chances of doing this and filling with resin/epoxy? Would make for a very stiff Core indeed!
@j1mbo That would be hard, and possible messy. They’re not always water tight. Also would probably warp from the heat.
Concrete!!! 
Steel ??!! 
Aerogel! 
Baking soda and vinegar! 
Too liquidy. We’re looking for something more solid… Like gasoline and styrofoam.
Spray foam insulation?
You guys have it all wrong. Print with 70% infill as directed. Build your MPCNC (5 axis) so you can cnc a core out of aluminum.
Well I can tell you they definitely aren’t water tight or at least epoxy tight. I wanted to add a little extra to the core since it’s kinda the jewel of the whole thing and I didn’t like filament changes in it so I tried to infill the logo. When the epoxy was first mixed and thin it seeped between layers and I wasn’t very happy with the results. The middle was great then by the end it started to set up so much it was hard to work with. Kind of a fail, but once its dirty you wont notice nearly as much!
Epoxy also has an exothermic reaction when it sets, so it would probably get hot enough to melt some of the plastic.
Epoxy can be thickened with micro-balloons to keep it from seeping. Used to do this to create fillets when building boats.
It’s a bit of a Monet, but I like it. You’re right that you won’t notice the imperfections when it gets dirty.
I have a little watering can I printed in vase mode, and to make it water tight I did a leak check first, and there were just a few small spots that needed sealing. Particularly the edge where the bottom met the sides and one or two spots of uneven extrusion. I sealed them with CA glue.
After that, just put 1/3c of baking soda into the core, mix 2/3c vinegar with 1tsp of peppermint extract (to help with the smell), and poor it into the core. Don’t forget to start the camera!
