You will need all new printed parts and this hardware, https://docs.v1engineering.com/mpcnc/PParts/#update-from-burly-to-primo
Silver linings are important 
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I just had my sleeve eaten this week.
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I cut mine close to the router. Then I put in a 2 prong locking connector on the cable. This allows me to disconnect the cable from the router and remove the entire Z assembly without having to remove any of the cable management.
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That’s a great idea! What connector did you use?
I used an aircraft connector. on the panel mount side, I just slipped large heat shrink tubing over it and shrunk it down.
Pictures here:
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Hi Guys,
I have ordered the tubes for an Burly for 1000x800 workspace. And just now saw that the Primo design came up…
Can I somehow reuse the cutted tubes for the Primo, as I also just printed few parts for the burly design. Can someone point me some help? May I cut them smaller maybe?
Many Thanks from Germany
Yup have a look at the new calculator
thx Ryan, will do that… any chance of somehow backward calculate the workspace by the given tubes?
Both X and Y are roughly 5cm less. So start with this and then use the arrows to find the right value.
Super got it!! Many thanks for the advice!! And happy printing! I am So excited to build it!
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Sorry to Necro this, but since you have used this, what are some basic setting do’s/don’ts? You said slow… Slower than 1500? How is stringing compared to other PETGs? I might order this up, but want some more info before I try a reprint, or just buy a core from Ryan.
Is the diameter consistent? I just got 75% through the core print with Overture PETG, and when I checked in on the print this morning and saw the bad layers from earlier last night. Looks like 2-3 layers severely underextruded or blobbed, then back to normal. Environment was stable, but when I went back and checked filament diameter over a couple of feet on what was left of the roll, 1.71mm to 1.85mm! My measurements at the beginning of the roll yielded an average of 1.73, and nowhere near that much deviation.
I print mine at 1200mm/min – and only 60% of that for the first layer. At those speeds, stringing is much lower than regular PETg (I started off at “normal” speeds, and it took me a while to figure out why I was printing so many very stiff birds’ nests. ) Though truthfully, the AF PETg strings a lot less than other brands I’ve tried even without the CF addition.
The diameter consistency on the Atomic Filament has been top-notch for every spool I’ve used so far (PETg, PLA, and CF-PETg.) It really is good stuff.
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Any build info on your pendant?
Ok guys, I’m making some progress… over 28 hrs, a few petg hiccups, and after recognizing that I need to upgrade to an all metal hotend, was ultimately successful.
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I think Ryan has said that PETG is not really a good choice for the core. Is there a reason you chose it over PLA? What infill did you end up with? Let us know how you get on with it, I think some may benefit from higher temperature limits. Congrats on getting it to print well, in my experience PETG is the devils own filament!
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So after the failed Core print due to what I “think” is filament diameter variation, I decided to try to print the rest Z coupler and Z motor parts using the same filament(Overture PETG). Both used the same profile. You can see the motor part came out fine , but toward the top of the Z Coupler part(printed after the motor part), the print starts to get boogery/under extruded. I think this is what led to the bad 2-3 layers in the upper 2/3rds of the core print.
Micro Swiss hot end with direct drive, printing a little warm at 248, but I want the sheen and layer adhesion. Retraction tower tests are good/clean for this profile/temp. In watching the display for a while hot end temp stays pretty consistent and only bumps to 249 every so often.
My theory is that the small melt zone on the Micro Swiss hot end doesn’t tolerate big filament variations well. As stated in a previous post, when I checked a couple feet of filament after the core failure (that sounds straight outta Star Trek), the dispersion was from 1.71 to 1.83. my slicer(S3d) was set for a mean of 1.73 based upon measurements I took at the beginning of the spool.
I’m going to order up some of the Atomic CF PETG, and maybe some of their standard PETG as well since they claim a .02mm tolerance, but I wanted to solicit the opinions here to see if I’m barking up the wrong tree. I have 1 more unopened red Overture PETG spool I could use to re-try the core, but based on what I’m seeing with these to prints, I’m not sure I’d get any different results. Any suggestions are appreciated.
Who’s PETG did you use, what infill etc?
In looking at your picture, layers in the “IN” region look different than in the “ENG” and “EER” regions of the print. Is it just the picture/angle or does it look like that in person?
I’m struggling with PETG on the core too. I’m not new to PETG, but for some reason I’ve had crap luck with the core. One under extruded infill core (stock hot end was showing it’s weakness), Another print where someone cut the power to the house 1/3rd of the way through and the Z moved without power to the stepper so “resume print” didn’t end well, and then the most recent failure which was going great until a few layers in the upper 1/3rd just went bad (the print kept printing fine above that point).
Any insights to your setup might be helpful.
Also, no supports are needed.
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If you’re going to use petg for the core, add a few more perimeters.