I have the opposite problem. I can print PLA with a wide margin of terrible settings, but to print PETG, I have to get it right on. ABS is OK, but any long parts and I get enormous warping, and I really hate the stuff. It stinks, it shrinks, the bed has to be super hot.
I am on my first roll, but the CF PLA from Ziro was on amazon for $31/.8kg. It looks great and feels pretty good. I’m maybe 100g into it though.
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Any ideas for a cable chain mount for x/y and z cables?
Opposite for me.
It took me so long to get used to PETG and longer to learn ABS, all while printing PLA fine. MPCNC parts were first things I printed.
Now, I can’t print PLA w/o screwing up the prints.
hey that’s cheaper. and with a recommendation.
If you want a better recommendation, Stewart says it’s all he prints, and he has 4 big printers, and years of experience. That’s what convinced me.
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That is a great filament I have 2 and 1/2 spools of it seating at home.
The Core was printed with SUNSU CF PLA
That I also like it a lot
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I ordered my filament from Atomic and they did not have much more in 2.85 sadly. Filament is the next toilet paper…
Out of curiosity I searched for CF PETG tests and it fares pretty well in stiffness. So hopefully my core will be solid enough.
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yeah I’ve got a dragon and an all metal, sitting here, waiting for the rest of my voron parts to come in. I MAY break down and use the all metal. I printed all my voron parts in a cardboard enclosure, in a tiny closet, with a mk3s. Definitely need to change the ptfe tube. I’m sure it’s a wreck, in there. But I’m SO dialed in for prints, right now, I don’t even want to bump the machine.
Careful, I don’t know the answer, but all those testes were done on a plane 90 degrees from the one I design around. I design for max strength along the layers with the perimeters acting as a belt to keep it all in. All the test I have ever seen do not test on that axis at all, do they?
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Pretty easy to test really. You can print the new tool mount I hope to release today. Test the infill and percentages and see how much for it takes to flex it open a certain amount.
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I know, like I said, I don’t have any data to back it up!
I want to try it so bad! it’s between that and the ziro.
that ±05mm accuracy on the ziro, though.
May have to look at others, like the sunsu.
Always nervous about filament I haven’t used before. Good to get recommendations.
.8kg enough to get through the core?
yep it is
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Cheaped out and went with the Sunsu CF.
In my haste to disassemble my old machines and get ready for the Primo, I forgot to cut my Lowrider2 611 plate, but the rest is good to go.
The Sunsu is 1kg, so I have enough to print the baseplate and play around in the garage while the core is printing.
Hopefully, it goes ok.
I’m holding you responsible.
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PETG is more flexible than pla. My petg parts were printed with 4 perimeters and were still flexible. I upped them to 5 or 6. Primo is all pla now though.
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So how exact do the cuts have to be…hand sawing is not the easiest lol. Even used the hose clamp trick. Its suppose to be 34.5 (y Gantry). do I just use this piece for 34.25 (x Gantry) and take it down with the bench grinder.
Edit: the tape measure shifted a bit was kind of hard taken a pick but it’s off by about 1/32 maybe a little more
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Yeah at 90% infill, 6 solid top and bottom and 6 walls, my 611 plate bowed so badly, it was a joke.
Went ahead and ordered CF PLA for the core. Rest of my Primo parts seem ok in PETG.
I haven’t built one. But after proof reading the instructions I think the most critical lengths are the feet. The X and Y parts are on long grips so 1/32" shouldn’t be a problem. But maybe someone that has built it would know better.
You can also cut a little wide of the line and then trim it up with a belt grinder or a file and a ton of patience.
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