New LR3 excited

I am using these with my Omron endstops, and they are working well without having to bend the arms:
https://www.printables.com/model/252250-lowrider-3-cnc-extended-z-endstops

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I hear some folks keep a spray bottle of water with a couple drops of loctite in it to spray on their LR3 when it gets too excited. Gotta break that bad behavior early, or you’ll be tramming it all the time, or having to relace lost grub screws every time it gets a little rambunctious. Don’t get me started on pulling on the dupont connectors. That’s just the worst. But since it’s new, you get to train it while it’s young and hasn’t picked up too many bad habits, yet.

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Thanks for all the suggestions. Biggest problem was finding the tubing. Luckily found this thread Starting Out - How to Purchase
and i have a metal supermaket locally. Quoted at $76 plus tax not seamless but seam on the inside seamless is $180 plus tax. They did measure at 25.1-25.2 I don’t think i am getting any closer hopefully that will be fine. Plan to bring my own calipers and also a part to test fit prior to purchase. Router will be in tomorrow and i am so excited to get everything assembled. Looking at different threads for table designs. Think I’ll do a torsion box with wings incorporated and also foldable legs probably will set it up to where i can mount it on the wall and use a electric hoist to assist with lifting it. Anyone thought of something similar? So many options.

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Coming along pretty well at my girl house for the week so using the family room as a workspace.

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Definitely going to need to surface that workspace. :rofl:

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Been racking my brain on type of table I want. I originally planned to build a table similar to this (Best Budget Workbench? - YouTube). With wanting to do a 4x8 build considering doing 5x10 table or 2 5x5 tables, cutting my Y tubbing in half (considering internal couplings) and just connecting them when needing a full size table. Considering Y belt has already been addressed here for fast swap of small to big table. LR3 Mod, Mid Belt Y Tensioner block. Enables fast swap between big and little table
I considered the torsion box and Doug take on it for 2 separate pieces and for the life of me can not find a build or come up with ideals for still having foldable legs. I know a detachable base is a option and could incorporate hinges or something for that to fold but don’t want to always have to reassemble in the long run.

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1st table almost complete just need to add support stretchers for the legs.

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Lr3 up and running, just adjusting limit switched. Been reading the forum to better understand setup which led me to checking m119. My z2 max is always triggered even when unplugged. Can someone guide me on how to fix this or directions to a post already addressing this tried searching by keywords but no luck on my own. Thanks in advance.

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Hmm, maybe you programmed your endstops to be normally open? Then it would trigger if it wasn’t there.

/Edit: Dan is right, I mixed it up. :sweat_smile:

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Since we wire the endstops as normally closed, triggered is open circuit. Unplugged is open circuit, therefore unplugged is triggered.

Probably means that the wiring for your end stop is either wrong, or the wire is damaged. You can check if it is the board by putting a jumper on the end stop connection between signal and ground. If it then reads as open, the problem os a broken wire, bad switch or incorrectly wired switch.

You can see if the switch is wired NO if it reads as open if you press the switch. If you wired the wires to NO and NC, then it will always read triggered though. Anyway that should let you track down the problem to the wires/switch or the firmware/board

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Thank you! Appears to be a bad wire/ wired incorrectly. Checking connections now.

Yep bad wiring got it fixed now.

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So i am doing the initial squaring and working on the crown test. I am having trouble understanding the instructions. Kinda just gave up on the squaring for now and working on the crown. If i understand correctly based on this thread (Z - axis unstoppable, out of control - #23 by martin001), when i load the gcode to repetier add g92 x0 y0 z0 to the code and should set home at current location. Right?

It will do that at the machine, but Repetier host might not know it. If you follow that with a G0 X0 Y0 Z0 then it should work. (The machine should not move.)

The test crown, Has that built it so the best thing to do is start with the premade gcode that link takes you to, move the head to where you want it to start, with the head just above the paper, and then run the file.

The premade file resets the coordinates and move down 1mm to draw.

If that works great then try to replicate it yourself, and that includes setting up your starting gcode (G92…etc)

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Ok I see my mistake i used the crown vector link below which is the problem. It does not have it built in.

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1st crown test. Failed to rcheck level after relocating my table in the garage and doing some clean up. Right side was low by about 1/2". Haven’t redid the test yet after leveling. Weekly rotations to spend time with my gf and not having my trailer ready just yet for transportation is slowing progress but i am so excited. In the meantime just trying to learn more beginner stuff.
Feeds and speeds, materials prep(use of oramask), bits (mainly doing engraving), design and do much more to learn. Don’t think this could be possible for me to find a new passion without V1 engineering and the affordability and just taking the dive to learn something new. So very much appreciative.

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Biggest conflict I have just getting into woodworking and the world of being a craftsman is imperial vs metric and I loved math, love numbers, but do not want to go back to school to learn the metric system lol.

Edit: Good to know I dont have to change. Decimal inch is better!.

I use onshape for cad (they have a free for hobbyist license). It will convert for you. If you type “0.75in” in a box or “19mm” in a box, it will convert it for you.

There are advantages of both systems. Learning a little metric won’t kill you. You don’t need to go to school to learn there are 10mm in a cm and 1000mm in 1m. That is literally all you need in woodworking.

You can also use inches in Estlcam windows, and still have it spit out gcode in mm. I would not recommend using imperial in gcode. It just don’t think the juice is worth the squeeze.

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That’s one of the funniest sayings I’ve ever heard. :joy: Going to use that a lot!

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One tab that is always open for me on chrome. Google mm to inches lol.

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