Later this evening I’ll try this with one of my test Jackpot / V1E test ESP-32s.
I need to do that anyway because of a machine test activity that I’m doing.
At that point we’ll have another data point.
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That is normal because you have not uploaded a config.
Might as well try them.
Let me run a test in a bit and see why yours says dirty.
Can you please upload a picture of your jackpot and esp so we can tell which one you have please.
Ah, that makes sense, thank you.
Yes, I will be able to do that this evening after work. Can also try the A1 cards.
I ran a fresh install yesterday on one of my test Jackpot boards, which has a generic ESP32 (was bought from V1 with this particular Jackpot.)
I did this on a Linux box, using the native installer. (Most of my machines do not and will not have Chrome on them).
Downloaded install assets from the FluidNC github, then ran
erase.sh
install-wifi.sh
install-fs.sh
Result at first boot:
[MSG:INFO: uart_channel0 created]
[MSG:RST]
[MSG:INFO: FluidNC v3.8.0 https://github.com/bdring/FluidNC]
[MSG:INFO: Compiled with ESP32 SDK:v4.4.7-dirty]
[MSG:INFO: Local filesystem type is spiffs]
[MSG:ERR: Cannot open configuration file:config.yaml]
[MSG:INFO: Using default configuration]
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What, shoot I need to ask in the discord. That is not right.
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I checked mine says dirty now as well. I am pretty confident it did not used to say that.
Either way that means the flash should be good.
That is the board before the pull up resistor was added and that is a generic ESP32.
Did any of the A1 cards work, formatted to fat32?
Glad to know it’s not actually dirty!
OK, I can research the resistor needed, or should I not worry about it?
Unfortunately I don’t have time this evening to try the A1 cards but will for sure either tomorrow evening or this weekend.
let’s try the cards first, that is most likely. The resistor was just for boot issues.
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Tried one A1 card, no different. Wanted to try another slightly older card I found but ran out of time this evening to get it formatted and partitioned (it’s 64 GB). Not much to update this evening unfortunately.
If you are in the US I guess we should ship it back and let me take a look. Send me your order number, or PM me your email so I can look it up.
You tried the obvious stuff like blowing out the card slot, making sure it clicks in and all that stuff right?
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Yes, I’m in the US, will send you my information.
Yes, everything visually looks normal and the cards click in and out as expected. I even tried wiggling (carefully, slightly) to no avail.
Okay you are over 10 months of ownership on that board. Electronic as usually 30 days, 90 is a stretch for special circumstances.
Since this is one of the very early boards I will make an exception and take a look, any future readers seeing this 30 is the number.
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In the EU it’s 24 months for everything but batteries (6 months). 
2 years for a dev board? That seems very unfair, if you pop it or an upgrade happens you can just return it? So development cycles seem they would be very slow to prevent free upgrades?
It would make complete sense for a sealed board that the consumer is not supposed to touch (like a TV or Micro wave board) or change in any way but an open board seems very different. If that is the case I need to take a note and look into it, I will not have an EU based distributor.
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Or triple the price. Now we see why everything is so expensive over there 
It’s necessary to price according to local warranty and consumer protection laws. Shipping and tarrifs are only part of the equation.
I just checked around the ressources that I could find, but I guess you also have to offer the warranty in the EU (or your supplier will carry that risk). We have a 6-months warranty that says if it breaks you get a new one and the other 18 months you have to prove that the mistake existed since it had been sold (which, for electronics, is basically always the case).
You can’t break the board on purpose though to get a new one. Any modification (like pulling off the plastic on the SKR or snipping an LED, soldering the resistor to the ESP or Jackpot etc.) or wrong use would void the warranty ((plugging in the endstops wrong, frying the board) though that one would be hard to prove as a seller).
The guy who sells my board has got the explanation in his AGB (§5 Gewährleistung), you might want to run this through a translator, but the warranty (Gewährleistung) in Germany/EU seems to be untouched. It is not a very common mentality here though to try to get new stuff by breaking it. I once had Saturn (big electronic chain) exchange a kid’s cassette recorder after 16 months, then again after 18, because the cassette deck broke (which was not our fault at all, it was just a shitty product), but besides that I rarely never had to send something back because it broke/was broken.
What I’d do is that you let your manufacturer handle shipping and warranty in the EU, so you basically outsource all of that stuff if you don’t want to deal with it. Your margins would be lower, but hassle-free and you might still make more money because shipping from US to Germany is a big turnoff. The German companies selling your printed parts also have to give 24 months warranty on them and you don’t have anythin to do with it, right?
@Syntorx9k Sorry for derailing your thread, but this seemed important enough to do so.
No worries!