Working on building LR3 so do full sheets. I’m hoping to making building my arcade cabinet kits fast and affordable enough to make it a viable business. Will us to Build LR 4 once released.
Plan to use Jackpot board with FluidNC.
Due to the imminent arrival of the LR4 not more LR3 parts are being produced to I will be printing EVERYTHING. that means that all of the plates will be printed. I plan on doing these parts last. I have about half of my rail blocks printed. I plan on doing the prints in a smallest to largest.
I’m using 2 printers. I have a Neptune 3 pro and Neptune 3 Max. Both are being controlled using a touch screen system using Klipper. I use Orca Slicer for setting up and submitting prints and do my modeling in Fusion 360
If you have any experience or insights regarding any of this please comment and share.
Sounds like an awesome project! Am watching with interest, making an arcade machine is on my ever growing project list. Discovered https://www.youtube.com/@TheDanielSpies_Arcades channel thanks to this forum.
Look forward to seeing how your arcade projects progress. Cheers!
I originally had printed XZ plates (as part of the LR3 Beta team.) Now I have steel. (Yep. Steel, not alumimium.) Is there a difference? Well, I had to move the Y belt holders on the XMin side because it changed the overall machine width.
The printed XZ plates are indeed very capable.
YZ plates, I’m less sure of, but they ought to be good enough. Looking at what forces they deal with is illuminating.
Oh yeah, to echo what Aza said please post lots of arcade making stuff. I’m another one who has a cabinet build at the tail end of their todo list and in all probability will never get round to it so watching someone else is the next best thing.
Be aware that two printers, even if they are same brand and same model, can be distinct enough from each other so as to print parts that don’t exactly match dimensionality of the parts from the other printer.
You may well benefit from printing large calibration tests on both.
Ryan is impressed with and recommends this large calibration thing:
That’s a paid model. Here’s a free one that’s not as good, but could be helpful.
Its worth it to pay the price. And its a one time payment, any updates they email you a new version and all. Has been a very worth wile purchase for me
So that’s a LowRider version 3, with 1" stainless steel tubes. My Strut Plates were cut at 1,435 mm.
However, bear in mind that LowRider version 4 is seemingly nearing the finish line on its development and testing stages. It is based on larger diameter tubes, and is a beefier design. You can see some of it in action in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dBgvDj8Z8W8
The LR4 is planned to support at least 3 different tube sizes, all measured in outside diameter, to enable makers around the world the best option for sourcing near them. In the US, 1" EMT (rigid steel) has an outside diameter of 29.5 mm. That’s larger than my 1" (25.4 mm) outside diameter stainless steel tubes. The 1" EMT (29.5 mm) was bought at Lowes home improvement store, and it was quite a bit cheaper than the stainless steel tubes were.
The decision you face here is whether to build LR3 now, or wait an unknown amount of time and build the beefier LR4. If you do build an LR3, you will be able to use it to cut flat parts for the LR4 (strut plates and XZ plates).
In order for me to use the new LR4 on the same full size table I already have, it is likely that my strut plates and EMT galvanized steel tubes will need to be a slightly different length than the ones for my LR3.