Hello … is it possible to print in polycarbonate, the pieces would not be more rigid?
I am a layman in PRINTING.
The rigidity of the MPCNC is not primarily influenced by the type of filament in the prints. PLA is plenty rigid enough, and a whole lot easier to print. If rigidity is important to you, it’s more beneficial to minimize size of work area, and especially z height.
1 Like
Thanks for the tip … but I’m looking for solutions for a useful area of 1200x600x100 …
I printed my PRIMO with different materials also thinking about using Carbon PC. As Turbinbjorn mentioned also in my opinion it doesn’t make sense.
I have created a topic of my experience with different materials for different parts.
To be honest I like to work with Carbon PC. Really a cool material but very difficult to handle, especially for a layman.
From my point of view best material for the MPCNC is CPE HG100 or perhabs PETG with a infill of min. 50%. It should be easy for you to handle it and you do not become frustrated.
ASA could also be a possibility but based on the warping issue not easy to print, especially because the printings need sometimes up to 22 - 24 hours. CPE HG100 is better, easier and with the same characteristics.
The weakness of the MPCNC is typically not the material but the guides (“rollers on pipes” etc), Nema 17 steppers, drivers you use (or better the adjustments like Vrefs) and so on.
But … of course you can also use PLA with higher infills (e.g. I use it with 70%). That works for most requirements, too.
Before using Carbon PC which is round about 150 - 180 Euro per kilo I would built a “real” CNC out of aluminium, not printing it.
Thanks for the tip … it’s very similar to what I intend to do, I want to increase the RIGIDITY with the help of aluminum profiles, using angle bars I believe it can make a good difference …there is a space at the bottom that can be used for this reinforcement …
The low rider.
3 Likes
not necessary in my opinion. I used the profiles not only for rigidity but mostly for precision. Of course, having 1200mm pipes at x-axis, you should use supports but … why you want to build a MPCNC?
In my opinion there are better solution for those dimensions of a cnc that you want to build.
My x-axis is round about 850mm but I want to realize also tools of up to 1200mm too. Not much (less than 10). I will do it in a way in miling the first area and in a second step the rest.
1 Like
I was researching low cost alternatives and I found MPCNC, I have an Ender 3, but I need a larger area for some projects, I have nothing defined just I am researching and I found MPCNC a good alternative … because I don’t need a good finish as for printing, and I have some MARCENARY work that a cnc would help me a lot … would you have any project indication?
1 Like
Are you planning to use the MPCNC for printing or milling?
From what I have seen, it can be used for both, I am familiar with the GRBL and I already have the electronics for it ARDUINO, SHIELD,
I also have a SKR V1.4 and TMC 2209 drivers for the printer … I saw some videos where you can change the printhead and have two machines in one … but I accept tips, or coreections … rsrsrsrssrsrs
1 Like
Thanks, I found
To be completely honest, neither of those automatic changer mechanisms are really practical. Maybe someday a refined version could work but as it is now it’s not ready for prime time.
I’d like to develop a new manual version, something like the HicWic system but kinematic, as stiff as possible, and with an electrical connection. Michael from TeachingTech has been showing off the XChange quick change system and I am getting jealous.
Thanks for indication…
While you can add support legs around the edges of the Burly or Primo, the X and Y moving tubes that carry the Z axis (and it’s weight) will have the same sag as the side tubes, but you cannot support them with extra feet. This is why the lowrider is recommended for the larger build sizes.
Exactly … I am observing that, a lowrider seems to be a good option.
1 Like