SD prints don’t have the latencies that USB prints do. But even aside that, as I added above, getting rid of lots of tiny line/arc segments to have a single move still improves things noticeably. I had some G code files that reduced by as much as 80% after they were processed. That’s a lot of lines not to need to send.
Here’s the one I have installed:
Good deal. I will for sure check it out. Afraid to install it right now. Even though I’m printing from SD the pi is still hooked up and if it disconnects weird stuff happens (at least it does on my other printers) but when this print is done I will for sure check it out.
Was just reading about the plugin and it mentioned that arc support had to be turned on in configuration_adv.h so I had it pulled up and checked…
Could this be why it was printing that way before? I don’t see how since its doing fine now but just made me curious. Was surprised to see it off.
edit. nevermind. Im an idiot. It is turned on. I was looking at the wrong thing… 
We still love you. 
@azab2c i can’t find the post to quote but I remember you saying something about using order guide tube that’s 3mmID instead of the normal 2mm ID stuff.
I’m setting up a bunch of dry boxes and want to run some from each box and only have to change connections at the filament sensor (if I even keep it in line since it’s being such a pain) so trying to buy some in bulk.
Is there any reason to spend the extra for Capricorn tubing over this stuff on Amazon?
Dry boxes sound like great idea given the humidity numbers you shared. Am using some Rubbermaid cereal sized ones. But could have CNC’d something to hold multiple spools…
Bought the same clear 3mm ID, 4mm OD from amzn. Definitely less drag on the filament, also feels more flimsy than regular PTFE. The flimsy PTFE might help reduce twisting forces on the carriage too?
If/when fittings bite through the thin walled PTFE, and/or something else kinks/compromises, then, I plan on upgrading to 4mm ID 6mm OD. But will need to ensure the PTFE doesn’t impact carriage motion. Back when figuring this stuff out, I noticed larger hole thick wall PTFE seems to be used on Pantheon and other pricier machines.
Related post…
For “reverse Bowden”, I don’t know if Capricorn is worth the extra $$, it’s blue, so there’s that…
Edit:
For direct, 3mm+ ID feels way better than 2mm ID for reducing filament drag, so that’ll help reduce friction the extruder has to overcome (feeding and fast retractions).
For “Bowden” on my Ender 3 max, am happy with the 2mm ID Capricorn I use there.
I have a Ender 5 plus that I swapped from white “regular” pfte tube to blue “capricorn” tube and it´s a lot better.
If I would change only “one” thing on a 3d printer the tube is the thing I would change.
I get that for a Bowden setup. But this is a direct drive extruder setup. That’s what made me question the Capricorn being worth the added cost
Yes, I used to have a bowden setup with this printer, I then changed to a direct drive and I am still using “capricorn tubing”.
I think it’s worth the extra cost for both bowden and direct drive.
Yes I’m using the rubber maid containers as well. Each with a 3d printed spool roller and a humidity sensor mounted. It makes a huge difference. Also have decadent in the bottom as well. Keeps the spools at or under 20% humidity vs 50% without them. Makes a big difference in the print.
Also planning to take some weight sensors I bought a while back for a project I can’t even remember and going to make scales for them to sit on. Hoping I can calibrate to know exactly how much filament is on each spool lol
There’s no such thing as more flimsy PTFE. Probably some other material, which is fine for this application-maybe even preferred. As long as you’re not using it as bowden tube for a remote extruder with flexible materials I bet it works great.
Anecdote: I encountered one specific lot of wire from one reputable wire supplier that was noticeably more flexible than usual. Sent a sample to the M&P lab for evaluation. The jacket wasn’t PTFE. 100,000 feet of wire off to the scrap bin. It was supposed to be PTFE jacketed, silver coated stranded copper wire. (Didn’t have silver coating over the copper strands, either) Counterfeit materials with fake certificates.
PTFE is what it is, and if it doesn’t behave like PTFE including the rigidity of it when extruded… It isn’t PTFE.
I hope you get that working. It’d be nice to have an at-the glance estimate of available filament. I always muck up my estimates of how much is on partial spools, below about half. It sucks too that different suppliers use different spools with the inner diameter different, making it even worse.
I hope I can get it working too! My plan is to have the container and all sitting on the scale. Weigh it with an empty spool and then weigh it again with a full spool. Hoping after that homeassistant/esphome can take care of the rest lol
Well as most have seen from my other thread I’m down a hot end. And the new heater block I got came with everything BUT the screws to clamp the heater cartridge and the thermistor in. I just spent over an hour trying to get them out of the old heat block and all I managed to do was round them out. So they are trash and still firmly inside the old heat block.
So I seem to be at a cross roads now. 1. I can try to find what size screws and all go in the heat block and order them. 2. Or I can try to figure out how to mount this beautiful looking H2 V2S I have sitting here. Also add in that either way I go I want to switch over to Klipper/Mainsail and do a CAN upgrade to limit the amount of wires going to the core.
So what’s everyone’s opinion on this? Y’all are way more knowledgeable than I am in this stuff.
OHH… I almost forgot. I think I also smoked the SKR Pro when I was trying to first clear the “blob”. Something went pop and everything went dark. I have not investigated further. It could be just a blown fuse for all I know. But If it is the board smoked. Should I just replace it with one of the spare SKR Pros I have from the CNC Machines or should I throw in this Octopus Pro V1 I have here??
I’m using a H2V2s, but it requires a new carrier for it and a fan mount and a bltouch mount as well. Octopus works well for this and you can probably use someone’s config file and be running quickly. Either will work. Just be methodical with the wires.
Bonus points: if you decide to cut your area in half, you could mount a second extruder using one of the 2 extra channels and double your output… But an skr pro will work also.
From memory, the E3Dv6 block takes M3 thread screws. The set screw for the 3mm cartridge blocks are the same as the grub screws in those GT2 timing belt pulleys, and the 5mm-8mm lead screw couplers.
In the pit thermistor version, an M3x4mm screw works, I think an M3x6mm will still fit.
The clamp screw for the heater cartridge is a good old M3x8mm screw, but I think an M3x10mm will work. I ended up using some random ones I had around.
How do you like that extruder? I found this on Printables last night and printed it…
https://www.printables.com/model/544033-mp3dp-v4-rail-mount-for-biqu-h2vs-revo
No bonus points for me but would be cool to see someone do it.
Wish I would have asked this a week ago. I have those screws here LOL.
Do you have a front-door/enclosed MP3DP, if so will this fit? Thought the fan was proud of the front, noticed in orob’s video.
No my printer isn’t fully enclosed. Just side panels and the partial front. I found this fan/duct on printables and I’m going to give it a shot. The one @probrwr linked for me used a different heat block than mine has so I don’t think it will work.
https://www.printables.com/model/494404-vortex-viper-5015-parts-cooling-system-for-biqu-h2
That is my mount. I do not have a door on it and honestly I am not sure if it sticks out past the front plane of the printer. I will look when I get home.
Do you have the H2V2S Lite?
Yes sir I do.
