Consider modeling interior panels if you’re building with those, otherwise you end up with holes not aligning like me 
Fortunately I only messed up on Ply, and not $$$ Poly. Will reuse the failed Ply to make @Tokoloshe’s cleat containers or something
I almost did, but I had to print something where square matters on my old printer that I built this way, and it wasn’t really square. Not off by much, but I could see it when I checked.
That was enough motivation for me to buy extrusion. Now, if I could just get out there and BUILD it.
There something similar to BLTouch but for skew/squarifying/calibrating XY, something that can compensate for crappy assembly, and/or unstable material (skew compensating post processor)? E.g. Camera + ChatGPT since that can do everything.
Ended up using Polycarbonate for interior side panels, will use on front too. Will save some $$ and use ply on the back to help square the frame. All the cool kids are using HDPE it seems.
Excessively long legs to accommodate electrical stuff underneath. Taller uprights on the rear for TBD lid.
Ah yes, I forgot about the skew correction. At any rate, they’re are some things I don’t like about that printer anyway. Once I replace it with the repeat, I’ll probably see if I still have the parts to put my ender back together and call it good. After all, that LR3 ain’t gonna build itself…
The MK3 can do it with the lines on the bed. Don’t ask me specifically though.
Got Polycarbonate, Ply and Sheet metal panels. What else? Am not doing HDPE. Contemplating dumpster diving a local countertop company…
problem: On front right stepper mount, button head of the M3 ended up being grinded by the M5 crossing overhead. This caused M3 removal to be slow/frustrating later on.
I was removing the M3 after realizing stepper couldn’t freely rotate because grub screws are too proud and knock into body of the Stepper Mount .
fix: I probably didn’t seat/fasten the M3 enough, button heads on my M3’s are ~2.3mm tall.
@vicious1 Consider more vertical clearance for head of the front right M3 x 10mm bolt that sneaks in first, underneath the M5 x 30mm bolt, that pull on the stepper mounts, so belt tension can be adjusted.
Learnings / Fluff-ups:
**Edit 2023-04-13 : ** Should have used 8mm instead of 10mm for that front right M3, bolt would have cleared underneath the M5.
That one bit me too. Getting the nut in the groove after attaching the stepper mount to the extrusion was very difficult.
Yeah, getting M5 nut in the slot took me a while, adjustable pliers eventually worked for me. Managed to slightly damage/indent the printed part in the process. Not a big deal, cleaned up with box cutter blade, but I should have padded the adjustable pliers before squeezing nut into place.
M5 nut slips out when loosening, so might print small ‘C’ shaped filler block to keep the M5 nut in place but allow M5 bolt to pass through. The interior panel will prevent filler block from falling out.
Use the M5 bolt to seat the M5 Nut.
put the nut in where you can still hold it. Put just the M5 bolt in through the hole and get it started on the nut. Then pull the M5 bolt to pull the nut into the spot where it is supposed to go.
I put a touch of super glue on the nut to hold it in place.
That is an M3x8, that is why it says “8” right there. The rest are tens.
Oh those are my fancy Pulleys. They work great on the LR, sorry I should have paid more attention. The grub screws are much nicer. But they are longer. you can just file them down a bit.
I use the screw to pull the nut into the slot. Then take the screw back out before assembly.
Mine are super tight.
LOL, I completely missed the “8” swirls on my print. My dumb luck/mistake, I must have used wrong print orientation, the “8” ended up on initial layer and wasn’t embossed enough for me to notice.
Done!
Ended up grinding down stubborn grub screws. Grinded after failing to unscrew, my Allen/hex key deformed before being able to overcome medium strength threadlocker, friction fit and the mightily strong grub screws.
Edit: For Left Front Stepper Mount pulley, even with just one grub screw fastened, I still needed to grind down the sole grub screw so pulley could rotate freely. That was faster for me than trying to modify and reprint Left Front Stepper Mount to have wider pulley hole. Won’t be able to tighten/remove/adjust grub screw now, will need to cut pulley if/when adjustments needed.
Thanks to info from misc MP3DP builders.
Parts :
Built Frame for 250x250, but 12"x12" plate might physically fit. Hotend won’t be able to fully reach entire bed. I still need to confirm wiring will still fit if plate oversized for the frame is used.
The excess Alu bed will have unnecessary unused bed area increasing weight, and sink heat from usable area that actually needs heat.
Even so, for the sake of getting end to end functionality working, will live with the excess weight/heatloss for now since it’ll avoid me having to cut Alu bed smaller in the short term.
Thinking :
Parts :
Was tempted to reduce overall wiring length required by dropping through center of Bed Support Plate, with controller underneath the printer. Would need to figure out wiring protection, strain relief, maybe the zip ties would be enough? Decided to drop wiring out back of the plate. Hopefully route wiring within a drag chain…
Note holes for bed are missing. Reason is I don’t know where it’s going, waiting until hotend is assembled and I have better idea of usable XY that nozzle can reach.
Based on misc pics/notes, esp Dan’s notes.
Parts:
Steps:
This is what i did. I will post a picture on my thread this evening when i get home.
Decided to ensure am not ready til the last minute, by not scavenging my dual screen LR3 case as-is. My LR3 case would fit, but it’s too chonky, doesn’t look good. Going to burn time modding this mod and attempt to make something slimmer, will shove Octopus and everything else further back under the bed area into the extrusion/sheet-metal portion of the case.
Spool won’t fit in the back right corner as built for 250 Usable X, adding an extra 25mm would have worked. One option, without rebuilding would be to cut an opening into the interior panel. Leaving as-is for now, focused on getting wiring working…
