Min temp error

The extruder in that image is a titan aero extruder. We used to use an mk8.

I am not sure how to help. Using an MPCNC as a printer is an advanced machine at this point. Our tools have moved away from that configuration. We can try some things, but your current set up is as close to finished as we have.

I can help with specific questions, and you’re giving me the info I am asking for. But you’re in a tough position. I can’t help you configure Marlin for your machine and the firmware you used is long gone (unless you have it in a zip somewhere).

To reduce risk, you could get another Arduino mega and just leave your current one alone. Then try to flash the new Arduino with the mp3dp code, and figure out how to compile it. Then make changes as problems rise. If you get stuck, you will have to query the old board for answers.

That will require you to get platformio working, and you’ll have to be able to send commands and get responses from Repetier host.

I never made a firmware that was setup for an extruder on the MPCNC as far as I can remember. That has always been an advanced task. You need to change a considerable amount of settings and without Dual endstops available your prints are never accurate.

Can you please upload a picture of your setup so we can see exactly what your have and what versions of the extruder and MPCNC you are using.

Hi Ryan,
I thought you created the company printing 3d parts out of pla with the gang machine in your pictures. I bought the first one as a complete kit and used it to make the second and third.
All have Arduino/Ramps and DRV8825 drivers
the extrude is a Titan Aero. The firmware was a file you sent right after I assembled the machine. Back then you recommended not using end stops and turning off the power to set the 0 points.

It sounds like you don’t support 3d printing now and have moved on to cnc machine routers?
If I wanted to run the old designs that I own can I purchase mother boards preflashed set up to operate Repetier files and use the Titan printer?
I would also need one setup for a laser and end stops. Is this possible?
I have sent pictures of existing machines and the extra boards I would like to use if old style is possible?
Rand
Uploading: 41F6CE7A-692F-44DC-88AD-CB8876B652CA.jpeg…
Processing: 81DA0D5F-B226-44F0-BB7D-2921DC4E6693.jpeg…
Uploading: 96BFC93F-4B01-479F-B0E5-39697BEBEF96.jpeg…
Uploading: AD9EDE2A-0DF0-4DE5-9F28-A83069F90A25.jpeg…
Uploading: 17D62B45-B3B8-4D70-9BEB-9D512B918D46.jpeg…

No that 4 head build was an experiment that only lasted a week or so.

We only used the MK8 extruder for 5-6 years. The titan also did not last long, I went right into the Hemera and only ever owned one titan. I Don’t think I ever put a titan on a CNC build of mine. I got a Titan with the MP3DP v2, if I remember right.

If I sent you a file it must have been a custom one I made, Check you email archive. I can tell you I am fairly certain I didn’t send you the file, maybe it was another user? 3D printers need a lot of setting changed and they are very specific to your actual build.

This has always been a router that could 3D print.

No, you need to edit your firmware to suit your actual build. You need to edit the E steps to your exact extruder, that number is not a constant, and both thermistors need to be set as well as the accelerations for your extruder. I can tell you these days you can get a 3D printer for just over the price of the boards we use here. I am even hearing of micro center selling $99 3D printers that are decent.

No. All lasers are different, and you do not have enough drivers for dual endstops and an extruder, the main reason we stopped messing with extruders.

Your pictures did not work. You should be able to drag and drop them into the window and wait until they finish uploading before you hit submit.

Anything other than a router or drag knife requires the end user to edit their own firmware to some degree. That is why I do not sell other attachments.

We can help you edit your firmware but we need pictures to verify your build, extruder, and board setup. You will need a working installation of platform io from that page.

I just saw a couple pictures show up in the notifications but am not sure why they will not show here.

You have a GEN 1 mpcnc, self printed, using the “better Z mod” with a mod I have never seen to use a leadscrew. You are using an MK8 extruder but it is missing it’s heatsink, that is sure to cause issues since those use a PTFE lined throat, that heatsink is vital.

You are using a ramps board but a49 drivers that I have never sold as a bundle, You do have some drv8825’s though that are in your scrap pile.

You can use the series current firmware but it needs to be edited to enable the extruder and change the settings I Previously mentioned. Whatever firmware you had before was 100% not supplied by me, those drivers and a leadscrew at that version was not ever one I provided.




1 Like

Jeff,
I wanted to focus one question at a time rather then giving you 20 problems.
When I slice a Repetier file half the time it doesn’t go to the print highlighted mode. If it does and I select it doesn’t turn on the heaters or show any readings on the screen from the computer. It’s like it’s not communicating with the main frame.
When I select Control I can heat up the hot end so I know it’s getting 12 vt.
What or when does the signals get sent?
Rand

If you are slicing with REpetier you should be saving the file to a memory card and running if from your screen. That takes out the entire computer variable.

From there if you share a file we can tell you the starting gcode you are missing. The starting gcode is what tells the machine to heat up each heater and to what temp. It will not run until those are at the correct temp.

thanks i’ll try that and send you the code

I copied the Benchy boat file on a disk and inserted it into the Reprap screen. It said card inserted but then SD not loaded
And there were no files to see or run. If you want to see the file - is that the one on my computer or the scan disk? Do I open it and email the whole file? How do I do that and what would you like to see?
Thanks
Rand

Ryan,
One machine has A4988 drivers(new). I had changed both machines to DVR8825s over time. But when I couldn’t get the printer to move I changed to try a full new set of the older
style drivers to test that. No luck. I have one with the MPCNC threaded shaft with a HDPE threaded insert holder I made to replace one that cracked. The other is a custom acme threaded drive shaft with brass threaded fittings and a backlash fitting. The other parts were printed from my first machine to make my second. I changed designs any time I found a stronger looking one or when an existing one broke.
Do you sell a set of the burly design parts? If I want to have a 3D printer do you sell a preflashed board that operates as a printer? How hard is it to use Lightburn and set it up with a laser? Then a third machine with a 3d router?
Rand

That means you have had to flash your board many times. Why don’t we just help you get your running. I can’t imagine all of those boards and drivers are bad.

No All those sliced files are gone.

No, All 3D printers from here require custom tweaking of teh firmware. Only companies that sell hundreds/thousands of the exact same hardware can even attempt that (and you still need to adjust your E steps).

Let’s stick with one problem at a time, and I have only ever used lightburn one time to generate a gcode file, never to control a machine.

??

I do need help in getting going. What should I do next?
Do you think the difference of driver would make a shut down? Most of those Arduino boards are good and some are new but you have told me you no longer have software for 3D printing so I have nothing to flash or use these boards. I think I need to buy a new printer it’s cheaper.

I am disappointed you no longer have the burly parts anymore. I had planned to buy a set and make a router
setup thinking the new design was stronger. What are you
Going to make in the future? The web site is very confusing.

Where can I go from here? I can load GRBL or Marlin to the Arduino board and process g code files from Mach 3, Easel or Lightburn. But it sounds I need special instructions to tweak the firmware to match your machine? Do you have a set of instructions I can use to make this Match the speed and feeds for MP CNC?

Are you doing anything for lasers? I have two now and run NEJE or Lightburn software. I was going to print another frame to hold a larger laser and air blower. The case needs
Ventilation and a trigger when the motor turns on.

Just let me know what I should do next?

Rand

What is your current machine doing or not doing exactly.

The drivers require completely different firmware settings, so no you can not just plug in new ones, and those drivers actually need to be manually tuned with a voltmeter to a pretty exact voltage to not overheat.

I never had 3d printer specific firmware for the CNC…but any current firmware can be changed to suit your exact build.

If you want to 3D print mainly, yes, I think a $99 3D printer is a very good option, like I said earlier.

I suggest you use your current parts for a router as it was intended, your machine does not have any problems you are stuck with software and firmware currently, buying new hard ware will not solve software issues. We can help with software and firmware for free,.

What is confusing, I would like to fix that. the only MPCNC currently available is the Primo, it is the newest, most improved version. It is not set up at all for 3D printing, it is no longer an option.

Tell me exactly what is happening or not happening.

No.

I do not recommed it. I have never done that you would be on your own completely. New software will not help, please just stick to what works and what I can help you with.

???

As I said before lets work on one issue at a time. I will either help you get a CNC running or your Extruder, I can not do all three at once, neither can the machine.

What is your current machine doing or not doing exactly.

I have to just say. Rand, you’re asking for way more than anyone else. Your posts are expecting us to come up with everything and you to learn nothing. That just isn’t how it works on DIY machines like this. Ryan is s being extremely patient. You need to meet him halfway, at least.

Here’s what you should do:

  1. If you want to get your existing machine working again, you need to roll up your sleeves and figure it out. If that isn’t possible, then you need to find a more beginner friendly approach.
    Buying a cheap ender 3D printer will be a lot easier than trying to do this with what you have.
  2. If you want to convert the parts you have into a CNC router, then follow the docs. Start by assembling. Then flash your ramps with the V1CNC_Ramps from MarlinBuilder releases. Test it by using the premade test crown gcode. Then make your own project by following the estlcam basics.
  3. If you want to use the latest hardware to make a CNC router, then order some MPCNC Primo parts, a preflashed Rambo, and follow the more recent instructions for assembly, then test with the premade test crown gcode, and make your own with estlcam basics. These docs and this path is well established. It isn’t easy (this isn’t Ikea). But it is very possible. You will have success if you follow instructions and think through incoming problems. You are taking the risk that you won’t be able to figure it out. We will do what is reasonable to help (there are so many people here who love to help). But ultimately, success or failure is on your ability to put in the work and learn what you need to learn.

If you get stuck:

  1. Check the forums for existing topics that already show the problem. Read through the responses and see what fixed it, and why. You can learn so much by just reading how we diagnosed and how we found the problems. Try some things to solve it yourself.
  2. Open new topics with a very specific problem to solve. Share any useful information and stay focused on the one problem. Useful information includes details on what you did, what you expected, and what you actually observed.
  3. Ask specific questions. We aren’t life coaches. We can help with specific problems and give specific advice. If you want to know if a list of changes you made to the firmware are a good idea, I would love to review them. If you want to know what you need to make a 3D printer, that is too broad.

Ryan can absolutely build the parts you have into a 3D printer. He is an expert. But he has a lot of other responsibilities. You’re asking for a huge amount of effort to get what you expect, but no one has promised you. That’s just not fair.

Rand your reply did not come through. You can’t reply directly from the email, you have to do it here.

I apologize if I have asked too many questions. I think my sleeves have been rolled up for 10 years and I don’t agree that I learn nothing. I am sorry and apologize if my attitude comes thru frustrated but I find this very confusing.

I want to meet you halfway and only look at one project at a time. I have a MPCNC printer I bought from Ryan and all the parts. We loaded it with his software and we printed hundreds of parts. It all worked and I learned to print 3d parts as all diy builders have. One change or adjustment at a time.

Now: my printer no longer works. It connects to Repetier and slices the file.
When I select Print nothing happens. The temperature shows 0 on both the bed and the extruder. If I apply 12 volts to either heater they both work.
Can we fix this one problem? I will answer any questions.
Rand

1 Like

Can you move the CNC from repetier? Can you move it with the LCD?

Repetier does not actually need to be connected for it’s “connected” button to turn green.

repetier says it’s connected but I don’t think it is I can get the stepper motors to work from the LCD screen and the heaters .

1 Like

Okay, that should be very easy to fix. Go to the settings tab in repetier, what Baud rate and Com port are you showing.

1 Like

250000