I’ve just made myself a relay controlled power socket, to control starting and stopping of my LR3 router. I have a Makita RT0702CX4/2 as my spindle. I can get the power to control from G-code without problem, using M106/M107. The problem is with the router, which seems to have a feature built in which will not turn the spindle on by just applying power. You have to first turn the power switch of the router off then back on to start it. Has anyone else overcome this “feature”?
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The reason is that after a power outage, the RT0700C restarted by itself if left switched on, which does not comply with safety regulations in the EU and many other regions of the world. The new RT0702C has an anti-restart safety function, which makes a hack necessary to be able to switch it on and off by a relay . I assume the 120 V version in the U.S., the RT0701C, will be replaced soon too.
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I don’t know the answer to this. Above my head. Sorry.
For this scenario, where regulatory requirements mandate manual devices have a power-off interlock against starting when AC power is applied… It may be necessary to either use a proper spindle with a controller, or accept that you will have to manually be present to switch the router main power on and off.
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I saw this listed on the Amazon page for the Makita 700 series router US version. looks like it has contact for a trigger of each plug independently.
I did the same (solid state relay with M106/7) with my 120V US version which I purchased in late 2022, never had this issue.
Seems like a solution in search of a problem, like sounds sensible but then results in a product which doesn’t turn on even when it’s plugged in and the power is switched on, which would make me think it was defective or something.
That said, I haven’t really found running the commands to be more convenient than just switching it on and off myself. My plan was to have estlcam do it for me when it generated the code but never got around to that because I was sure I was going to inadvertently mess something up.
It‘s now required in the EU to minimize workplace injuries. For a router you use in a CNC it is definitely not ideal, but then again, every rule we have is written in blood.
We could now get back into the debate as to why some people use the tablesaw without a riveting knife etcpp., but we‘ve done that quite often now. 
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Being next to it to turn it on, not a big deal. I’d still use gcode to turn it off at the end.
Sometimes I wonder if it’s just me, but I have a table saw with a riving knife, still have not had a close call, and still I am scared as hell when I use it! It screams like a banshee and the dust collection is pitiful. It is partially the impetus for a full-size LR3/4.
I hope that having a full sheet CNC and a track saw would let me ditch it entirely. Probably with some clever jigs for the track saw I could make it work. Time will tell. I would be glad to be rid of the table saw, the planer as well. It feels a lot like labor and less like enjoying a hobby when I have to use those big tools.
The CNC is not a replacement for those two tools, depending on what you do. Setting up a straight cut with a CNC takes considerably more time than to just run the thing by the saw. Same goes with the planer. Planing a 1000mm/300mm board takes ages and you have to sand down the “stripes”.
Totally understood, and agreed. Though I hold the heretical view that I would like fewer tools at this juncture, so it may be a sacrifice I’m willing to make in the future 
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Don’t let my wife see this…
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Yep. I like the cnc but there’s a lot of stuff is not suitable for. I have a regular tablesaw at home, but the makerspace i use has a big one. It’s worth the drive, plus leave the dust there instead of my garage.