Cast concrete table? It’s a bold move Cotton, let’s see how it plays out 
(i think they’re fold up pasting tables)
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I’m already going down to rabbit hole as it is and now You put my mind a concrete table, I can do that. Pretty sure, I floated concrete porches on second stories before, it’s not out of the possibility.
I’d be crazy to try it but then again….
So here’s my table on edge that I built my grid onand don’t let the picture fool you, that curve in that table is not an optical illusion, it’s really there, and I didn’t even realize it when I built my grid. Shame on me.
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Those look exactly like the plastic folding table I bought at Ace hardware last year.
Lifetime folding tables from Lowe’s
It would really get to me I have to admit, but it won’t affect the use of the machine at all - just don’t pack the Y rail up straight, let it follow the curve!
Am I preaching to the converted to suggest you make the convex side the top? Gravity might just pull a little out of it - nah, it won’t! 
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100%. But it would drive me nuts, knowing I have a banana boat for a table top. Pretty sure all this messing around I’m doing will produce a relatively flat enough table top, throw the rails on and get back to wiring this puppy up
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You could just reprint in yellow! 
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This is probably crazy, but then again knowing my personality, I’d probably try something like it.
If you set up a flat temporary rail and temporarily ran the X min side on a flat portion of the table, you could add a shim layer to the rail and flatten it (like a slab.) It would make it as flat as your shimming on the rail. Because of the diameter of the rail, I’d think this would be relatively easy to shim straight. Adjusting for the shim layer is possible through Z-pulloff, or one could plane down a shim for X min so the risers for the running surfaces are similar in height.
It’s beginning to look a lot like LR-4 Christmas (gotta read it and Bing Crosby’s voice to get the full effect)
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This can be fixed with shims and fasteners. I ran into same issue on mine from building off concrete floor and just adjusted it between skirt and the legs.
Exactly… i will be using glue and playing cards (playing cards is how the old-timers levels slate pool tables) because they don’t compress… ever. 
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So while the turkey is in the oven and the ham waits, it’s turn, and Lowe’s being closed today, so I can’t get the material. I need to build my Y rails platforms, I made some stickers to cover up the holes that I used the index the strut plate that I cut on the primo.
Happy Thanksgiving y’all.
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That looks like the perfect spot for some googly eyes…
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OMG. I just noticed I put the gantry upside down
No wonder things looked off
I know exactly what happened when I switched out the strut plates for the new ones I advertently put that sucker on upside down. Glad I found out now
LMFAO
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this is why I shouldn’t drink while playing in the shop.
cheers!
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Today was fun. Finalizing the table, I realize that the rail side outriggers were too long and the non-rail side outriggers were too short. Easy enough fix, I doubled up the ply outriggers at the proper length on both sides.
Utilizing the 49 x 97“ MDF spoil board and using Doug‘s parametric table layout on the non-rail side gap of 3 1/2 and the rail side gap of 1-1/2”
Once all adjusted, I boxed in my rail guides.
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Looking sharp!
“Yes”, I thought to myself "you just have to turn the table around" 
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That was my first thought but it was also wrong. 
The short side was too short and the long side was too long. Not sure what the heck I was smokin’ when I drew this all out… but at the time, I was wiling to bet my wife’s paycheck that it was perfect. So simple and I know I make it harder than it needs to be… but that’s how I roll
Preview of the short side…
I plan on using 1/2” MDF spoil board and also plan on using 1/2” MDF to shim up under Y rails so the rail is just a bit above the 1/2 spoil, but will also be within 1/4 if I decided I need to use 3/4” MDF spoil.
Probably just unnecessarily complicated it some more.
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