After a long football weekend, I’ll get back on this today focusing on the core. Still unsure as to the table size, leaning full size. Gonna do a mix of Dougs and Ryans parametric tables but need it to remain light enough for a single person to maneuver (maybe hang on the wall).
First thing is to complete and get it operational on the floor to cut strut plates and table ribs.
Got the core done.
Looks just like the pic. I forgot to get the touch plate so I threw some wires in there, but I don’t know how long they need to be on the connection side but I made them 8 inches long on the plate side just to be safe
After the core, I jumped right into cutting the EMT conduit. When I built the Primo, I didn’t think conduit would be rigid or strong enough. I’m here to say the stuff is pretty stout. I went down to Harbor freight and bought one of those cutters and the damn thing wobble all over the place. Ended up using my makeshift Angle grinder chopsaw hack to get the pipes exactly 54 5/8 inches. After that, the gantry was pretty straightforward to assemble, except I wasn’t sure to use the nuts when putting on the temporary strut braces, but I did.
My only question now at this point is how to mount the board box temporarily so I can cut my strut plates once I get this thing laid out on a temporary frame table. Maybe in the future, some longer screws and holes through one of the temporary strut brackets would suffice, unfortunately where the holes are in the box it’s just space in the temporary strut bracket.
Only thing I can think of is to put a washer underneath the strut bracket that covers the open space and put a m3 x 15 mm screw through there Or something that doesn’t stick out too far
Anyone else have a better idea I’m all ears as Ross Perot would say
I really like this build and your documentation.
Ryan has talked a LOT lately about the “Yellow Brick Road”, which is to say all you really need to do to bootstrap an incredible machine is to follow the path. You don’t have to have a fancy 350 part torsion box table cut to .001mm precision and modeled in a 3 million element FEM.
Same with pretty much every other part. This is a straightforward machine to build that performs several classes above its’ cost category.
Just get the thing built and cutting well enough to start using it, learning and finishing up the last bits of the build. That’s what you’re making good progress on.
Congratulations on your build so far and your taking the time to document your journey.
your words are a truly inspire me to stop overthinking and just build the damn thing, LOL
Thank you. I am really pushing myself not to self-inflict paralysis by analysis on this project.
This is such a fight for me. I know for a fact, that most new users come in thinking about all the accuracy they are going to get from using a CNC to cut things. So a lot of people start looking at every aspect and picking them apart, assuming everythign that is not exaclty perfect starts to error stack (it does not always do this), looking for the most accurate stuff, most accurate way to do things. (balls screws come to mind).
In reality it just is not needed.
There is just no easy way to convey how much a lot of this stuff does not actually matter much.
My only real suggestion here is going to mirrors Jim’s statement. Just get it going, there is lots to learn. Worst case scenario is you hit an accuracy or precision limit and now have a CNC to help you take the next step. More than likely you will realize how much more accuracy a machine like this gets you than you actually need.
A real world example is I tell people to measure square on a full sheet build. They find out they only have a tape measure to get that large of a measurement so no matter what the accuracy they get is limited to (US standard tape) 1/16" at best and most distances only have 1/8" marks. Those same people will start to use cad and expect to have 0.001" joint gaps.
This is one of the best things I ever bought for squaring up my CNC. And I have used it many times and it works great every time.
I use something like this, Amazon.com, the added thickness makes it lay down real nice, super easy to use…but Jason has an idea to make it even easier in another thread.
Thanks! I was just about to look for a stick down tape to put along my work bench for measuring out LEDs and wires easier! Already added those to the cart!
Ryan did mention this in the documentation!
https://docs.v1e.com/lowrider/#core-assembly
- Optional Touch plate
- Run the wires through
- 140mm - 5.5” hanging out is minimum.
So, at 8 inches you have more than enough, and the excess may or may not be an issue.
You need a TV in your garage so you can work and watch football at the same time 
I have my old 56" rear projection you can see in the top left of this photo. I spent the entire day in the shop on Saturday watching football and working on a different project.
I’ve built 2 stitch n glues, but strip is so much cooler. Very nice!
I actually have a tv in the shop… but we went to the game on Saturday and I was beat Sunday morning so watched from the recliner LOL
thanks, that I did read and that is the 8", but I was referring to the other side that connects to the board. guess I need as much as the box is located on the gantry
I found a real lumber yard in the next town over… sells 10footx4foot 1/2" OSB which will be nice to use to build the long boxes for the rail and Y belts that the gantry will sit on. Will likely use MDF for the top of the box for smoothness.
Ah. Got it.
You’ll need to consider the path the wires will take to get to the full extent of the gantry and then “curl” back to get to the core.
made some quick progress tonight. attached the board box on the temp strut braces by using my laser and cutting 1/16 ply bottom with the holes. worked fine. then I installed the rail side on the gantry, then the non-rail side. perfect.
then I saw the core sitting over on the corner of the table. 
yup forgot to put that bugger on. so off with the non-rail side, on with the core then back on with the YZ-1.
Have I mentioned that reading the directions is a good idea? LMAO
man this sucker is huge
Why didn’t I add box screw holes to the temp struts… adding a note. Sorry
LOL. Consider this my contribution to the directions. LOL I needed the plate under the temp bracket because the holes line up in the voids when the board box sits in proper location, otherwise I would’ve just drilled holes. You could maybe just include a simple triangular plastic sheet part to fit under temp bracket much like the wood.
