LR4, how many hours to build LR4?

no

likely has additives to make it flow easier

Most important is flow.

With an Ender 3, if stock, you are probably not printing over 10mm3/s…

I have printed basic Elegoo/Overture Black PLA at 25mm3/s with no problem with my V5 with an H2 V2S Lite.

Hot end/nozzle size can affect print duration more than speed itself.

Doesn’t have to move super fast to lay down a lot of plastic

My Ender, I print at roughly the same speed as you, but capped flow rate at 10 to stop from skipping.

My V5 is conservatively capped at 19mm3/s for now, and prints up to 200mm/s with a 0.4 nozzle.

@Jonathjon pushes his a little harder than me I think. I have mine capped where I’m happy for now, especially coming from an Ender

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Negative on that one. He can build a printer way better than me in half the time!

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Yeah things are so variable now 3D printers need to be kept track of by mm3/s and CNC’s by Material removal rate, even then neither factors in accels, but it gets us in the right ballpark. I was looking at another machine which the LR4 might have been nearly as fast or faster in terms of Material Removal Rate, except the other machine was using 5x the accels, so in the end was faster.

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I’ve heard a lot of good things about these so far. I debating between these and the P1S. Ultimately it came down to size, looks (qidi kind of looks like it should teleport you or something) and the AMS system. Which looks like Qidi is working on their own?

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man, I will have to look and see what mine printed in klipper when I got home.

so they look alot like the old prusa/reprap clones you guys used to build. I have been wanting to cut out a frame and put one together to see just how fast it could run. (with klipper and microswiss, etc.)
Maybe next year!

I almost went that route!

I’m thankful that some smart generous people made a way to make the Flashforge AD5M be fully Klipperized. At less than $300 each, they have been super for me.

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O.k. I looked it up.

Ender 3 pro, klipper, microswiss dd, .4 nozzle .28 settings, Slicer said 28 hrs. It printed in 20

Says I used 177.14m of filament.

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On my AD5M’s I print at those blazing speeds with cheap normal PLA / PLA+.

Early on, I thought I had found one roll that would not take the high speed, but it turns out it was PETG that I had forgotten to label! As soon as I changed the settings to be for PETG, that roll also did great at full speed! I’ve yet to buy or use any of the HF rolls.

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Doug

What benefit does going fully klipperized have?

I’m seriously debating this printer just for the speed advantage for making LR4 parts, will I get the advertised 600mm/s out of the box?

For reference, I currently print at 25mm/s on a 10 year old adimlab / creality cline

Thanks!!

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IMO, Klipper is a lot easier to configure than marlin. Everything is in a config file and you can edit as needed. There’s also a lot more tuning available

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Yes, full speed out of the box.

It comes stock with Klipper firmware on mainboard and their proprietary GUI on touchscreen.

Pros for Klipper mod include the interfaces options, ease of config edits including skew correction. But I think their score on Calilantern was pretty decent out of the box.

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Out of curiosity, is anyone using the sovol SV08? It’s supposed to be a cost effective voron 2.4 build

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That is pretty wild! I just loaded the cord up on Simplfied3D and with a .40 nozzle, and .20 layer height im looking at almost 41hrs. :joy:

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Yeah, it all comes down to how much flow you can push, then how fast you can move the nozzle, and if you can cool it fast enough to not have droopy nasty corners and bridges lol


First print after a move and sitting up over a year. The filament is also old and just been laying in a box, I’ve had issues with damp filament in the past. I will get new pla before I run any more calibrations, plus I need to get a battery for my battery backup.

My slicer estimate for the core with a 0.4 mm nozzle and 0.2mm layers is 20 hours, but its usually pretty optimistic. I have been planning a klipper conversion (currently running marlin on skr pro v1.2) but it is giving decent print quality right now and I’m not sure how much effort I want to put into tuning klipper for better peformance ATM.

Out of curiosity though, the YZ plate material estimate is about 150m. I think a fresh spool is a bit over 300m. Can you safely get both ZY plates out of one spool, or is there guidance on part grouping to efficiently use material?

I wish I could get down to 20, but I feel like 60mm/s is my sweet spot. I’m not sure on that last part, I’d hate to risk it. Lol

Started my first part last night, one of the xy plates . First failure :laugh: half an inch up and it started to curl off the plate for some reason.

Bambu prints fast, let’s you waste more filament in half the time!

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I actually went, to the mockery of the rest, with a 5mm brim because it did happen to my first. Why not… :smiley: