Followed all the directions and somewhere between making the gantry and getting it on the table it went crooked.. so I just loosen all the pipe clamp bolts and wiggle it?
Can’t really tell from the photo but it’s not square and one side is definitely farther from the endstop than the other.
Are the sides firmly on the rails and ground? If yes, then it’s just a little crooked, so one Y is further away then the other, squaring does it or you can just pull straight.
Yes it’s flat on the rails and ground. Pulling it in various places doesn’t seem to make it square with the rails… seems like that would cause problems if the design was such you could just pull it out of square?
That’s exactly what dual Y steppers do. Make it square (or not square if there are connection problems etc.)
I’m trying to make the gantry square.. it is not square. If I try to force it square with the table the bearings do not sit on the rail correctly because the gantry is not square (see photo). Fable 5 gave me this maybe I’ll give it a shot:
Model slop isn’t likely to help.
Post pictures of your lower tubes as they sit on the braces for each of your YZ plates.
I’d check my xz plate to strut attachments at min X and max X. are you sure the xZ plate that is flat on the rail isn’t just toed in or out at the XZ plate to gantry attachment (3 bolts that can be manipulated if the tubing is too long)? If those are flat / square, then I’d look into the printer xz or yz skew and see if the braces are pushing the lower strut plate at a funny angle and then check if the strut plate on the bottom is square. If the front one isn’t square, the gantry will lean and so the YZ plates will lean to x one way or the other.
Autosquaring with the endstops will take the gantry and pull it square to the endstops, but once the motors turn off, it will relax out of square again. It can be very effective if only out by a few mm, but you are probably better off getting it as close as you can before doing that as you mentioned… you might be surprised how effective it is.
That might be it I am using the full braces I cut on my old LR 2.. maybe I’ll swap in the temp braces
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Thanks! This was the problem.. after I took out my cut hardboard braces and put in the temp ones it became much easier to square the gantry (although it’s way more wobbly now). Also, assuming you have a flat and square table with the rail square it’s WAY easier squaring the gantry after it’s on the table.. I followed the AI’s suggestion and balanced the bottom pipe on a fixed height board and it was so much easier from that point.. I could verify each side was square with the table and also use calipers to measure from the end of the table to the carriage on each side. Highly recommend this instead of trying to square anything or even attaching the braces before it’s on the table.
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