All the cool kids are doing it so I’m going to build a LR4 too! 
Couldn’t decide on my color scheme and then it hit me. Red. White. And Blue. How much better could it be!
)
Oh what a cool idea. I can not wait to see it finished.
gotta love it!
Calling it for tonight. Good progress though!
I never played with legos as a kid but I imagine this is very much what it felt like. I think I enjoy building as much as cutting to be honest.
This is why I’ve built 4 ZenXY tables, MP3DP v2, MP3DPv3, MP3DPv4, and have an MP3DPv5 being prepared. (Also self-designed 3D printers.) I built an MPCNC Primo, LowRider v2, LowRider v3 (on the beta team) and now a LowRider v4 (3 iterations of the beta project.) Another LowRider v4 will be underway soon. Naturally I build other thjngs, too. I have built 2 dedicated laser engravers, #3 coming soon. A vinyl cutter, and assorted specialty attachments for machines…
And of course all of these machines actually get used as well.
I mean that is quite the rap sheet!
Should have taken the French attack flag: White stripes on white ground. 
Kidding aside, that think looks great! 
Oh, I am just now reading the title. It’s supposed to be USA, not the French… 
Whoops.
And your daughter’s message is the cutest thing in the world. 
Hahahaha I was warned it might get mistaken but that’s ok! lol
Just realized that was in the picture. Definitely won’t be surfacing that part of the spoil board! 
@Sabotage37 your table top, 1/2" OSB and torsion box style? I’m looking to build full size LR4 with strong flat surface top that is actually light enough for one man to move off and store on its long edge… (maybe even hang on shop wall with metal French cleats). I was originally thinking 1/2MDF but I believe OSB if strong enough would be a heap bit lighter. thoughts?
Yes, built on a torsion box out of 1/2" OSB. (I think it is 1/2", I will double check when I get home. Something tells me I bought 3/4") Spoil board is 2 sheets of 1/2" MDF. Its actually Doug’s table design. OSB for the spoil board would probably be lighter. I didn’t do that because I wanted a smooth surface for my spoil board. However, I frankly don’t know that it would be light enough for one man to move by himself, even without the spoil board on there. The torsion box is substantial in and of itself. I could probably get it off the table but I doubt back on, and almost for sure not with the spoil board on as well.
Doug’s design is a great design though. I really like it. Glad I build it. I regret 2 things though. I should have done the test fit joints like he recommends. I just said it’ll be fine and wish my joints were a little better. I also probably would not go with OSB again. Cheap, yes. But you sacrifice in the screw strength. Meaning driving a screw into the end grain of OSB doesn’t work that well. I will probably rebuild one day with either baltic birch ply or maybe advantech subfloor. That is common in my area and seems to have a much tighter structure than regular OSB.
Hope this helps!
I forgot to look but I did today and it is 3/4 OSB. But I still would do something different for the next time.
Couple things.
The fan for the Jackpot. Do we want air blowing into the case or sucking air out of the case?
Note to self. Don’t forget about the nuts that get captured in the core. I didn’t have any filament at the house on hand, I said I’ll do it later. Yeah I totally forgot till it was completely assembled. HOWEVER, you CAN get them in while it is assembled. But it is a royal pain. Hahahaha
Also, would it be ok to add maybe some super glue on the screws that attach the linear rails to the YZ plates? They seem to be continually getting loose. At least on one side. I was pretty darn careful not to strip them. I mean it is for sure possible but I tried to be careful and did it by hand.
I prefer pulling air out, the fan is at the top so that way you are not fighting convection.
Slide the top rail back and you can pop the core right off, super easy.
You can, you can also swap out to a #4 woodscrew and glue (from the LR3). Both should hold pretty well.
I learned to dislike the M3s on the linear rails. The wood screws were a lot easier to screw in. 
The M3’s feel much better to me actually, I did not think that would be the case, you know I fought for the wood screws in the beta, until I tried the m3’s.
I have a really hard time getting them in, my hands hurt and the screws nearly strip. Jonathan does not have a problem with it either. Maybe the Prusa prints it a little tighter, I don’t know. -_-
Yours are too tight and Zach’s are too loose. Sounds like I get the sizing right in the middle.
Just make sure neither of you have any sort of hole compensation on in your slicers.
I am still convinced that running a tap in first would have solved all your problems…
