LR3 -> LR4 conversion going forward slowly

Hi all,

I have bought conduits for LR4, so as far as I’m concerned, this build is already underway!

I have bought 30mm/2mm, because 32mm they only had in 1.5mm, and guy from the shop told me sag will be smaller on 2mm wall even with OD smaller by 2mm… I hope he was right…

Current plan is to build Ryan’s table base and torsion box from Zach’s generator. Then put LR4 on that. I will start printing parts soon!

Did any of you cut their own plates from aluminium? Difficult?

I cut them myself in the beta twice, once with the LR3, @maddsmish also did so recently with plastic plates on a LR4.
If you aren‘t sure about settings etc. and don‘t want to waste material, you know who to call (hint: it‘s not the Ghostbusters in this case!). :joy:

Yes, you are my first choice, but I just want to put some pressure on you to get some discount :rofl:

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Really not earning too much with those, considering my time and effort and them being manufactured in Germany. :stuck_out_tongue:

oh, and I plan to put grblHAL on my skr pro for LR4…

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RE: cutting out aluminum plates using plastic temporary plates and temporary struts settings:

  • 1/8” Single Flute Carbide Endmill from V1E shop
  • 200 mm/min feed
  • 150 mm/min plunge
  • ~20k RPM on the Makita router I use (somewhere between 3 and 4 on the dial according to their docs)
  • 0.5 mm depth of cut
  • IIRC 0.5 step-over (tool diameter, so 1.5 mm)
  • 10 degree ease down
  • left 0.3 mm for a finishing pass and used the same DOC for finishing (could probably have gone deeper)

If any of that is weird feel free to ask questions. I actually am still using temp struts and printed plates even though I have these perfect XZ plates now just because I’m going back-and-forth on the final dimensions for my LR4 (it’s currently set up with a long X-axis but I don’t want to keep that).

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Ah, thank you for that @maddsmish - I think I’m closing in on proper discount from @Tokoloshe thanks to you :rofl:

But seriously, it’s tempting to try. If I will find some second hand aluminium, I might buy it!

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You could put klipper on it…

Don’t bother … I mean… The seller is a nice guy, he’s fast, h’es helping the comminity, the parts are flawless, and his prices are almost as cheap as buying the raw material… seriously… why would’ you buy from that guy?! :smiley:

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What are advantages of klipper? I liked grblhal because I could control from millmage and I think from xbox controller :smiley:

I controlled klipper from a switch controller. Millmage requires exporting gcode, but it is as easy as switching programs to upload to the machine and run and i used crowsnest with a camera for time lapse video creation..

Setup is straightforward after the initial flash. As long as you get it mapoed out right for pins, it eorks well, but even if you dont, it isnt hard to adjust and restart to fix it

You can probably run grblhal without any additional hardware, so that is a bigger deal.

According to the docs, if you have grblHAL flashed on skr pro you will be able to send gcode directly:

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That is a nice feature

I mean, I even got a French guy buying from me… If I get the Polish one as well, the wounds of WWII are basically mended… :joy:

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say, did wehrmacht use aluminium in tanks somewhere? I could find my second hand aluminium that way… I have metal detector - just need to go to some forest and… :wink:

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Kruppstahl, if we are to believe Adolf… :joy:

Funny this is one of the very (I mean… very…) few subjects where my mind goes “Wait… can we really joke about that?” :slight_smile:

Yeah, we should be able to do that, it’s nearly been a hundred years… :slight_smile:

My mind always goes: “Should we do that?” if someone flies the German flag here in Germany. Feels weird. :smiley:

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We have a saying here “One can laugh about anything… But not with everyone” :slight_smile:

I’m a bit confused here, I can directly send gcode from lightburn to my fluidnc LR4… Which seems similar to what’s described here