LR-Core - Fix or Re-print?

Hi everyone,
First post!
Bought a kit in May '22 and this is a second crack getting the prints done after a 2 year hiatus (the first attempt was learning the many ways 3D printing cannot be done)

During LR-Core print, it detached from the bed on the last 6mm of the job and spaghetti’d the rest

  • The rest of the part seems fine
  • The bolt hole near the failure is complete, the nut capture is mostly complete
  • The spaghetti part seems like it might not be too much of a structural issue.

Believe I have 3 options:

  1. Ignore it and just use as is and live with it
  2. Re-print the LR-Core (12ish hours and more filament)
  3. Use a printed ‘fix’ or cap that I was planning to superglue onto the LR-Core (if it’s not a structural issue)

Thanks in advance for any feedback

This is the ‘fix’ cap

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I say glue it on and see what happens. You already have the pieces. Those bolts are not to be overtightened, but just enough to grip the bars. Keep and eye on and if it fails they you aren’t in any worse of a position I would think. If it works then :+1:

Just my free advice, and you get what you pay for. :slight_smile:

Philip

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Oh how I wish I didn’t understand this… but I do and I’m in the middle of it right now.

Welcome back. I’d say glue and go man. It is possible your core could crack anyway and you might get some use out of it until then or at least test out the workflow and get things leveled and trammed. Looks like a nice print other than that part that is missing. superglue or epoxy? as long as it holds…

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Haven’t tried superglue or epoxy on PLA prints yet - see more learning in my future :grin:

I used some gel superglue just the other day on PLA. My problem is getting it on my fingers and then whatever else. good luck with that.

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Thanks - I’ll need it, fingers usually end up as a part of my woodwork projects whenever superglue is involved.

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You might want to try sprinkling some baking soda onto the seam right after clamping the parts together. It creates a stronger joint and cures the superglue quicker.

I normally cut a small chamfer around the joint area to build up a multi-pass fillet if the area is large enough, letting it cure between passes. You can also come back afterwards and sand it down.

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That’s a good suggestion, hadn’t thought of using a chamfer along the seam and building it up.

I keep a solution of baking soda and water in a spray bottle to use as cheap-as accelerant for superglue.

I remember watching Adam Savage use baking soda and superglue to build gussets and borrowed that technique to successfully build up the internal corners of a broken doorbell camera housing.

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Interesting. I hadn’t heard of that before. I need to try that the next time I have to repair a part.

What ratio are you using for your solution?

Any reason why you couldn’t use alcohol instead of water so it evaporates quicker?

Hmmm alcohol in a spray bottle - that sounds like way too much fun :grin:
Worth giving a try - wonder how well sealed the spray bottle is and if it would evaporate?

For the H2O mix, not really an exact science but approx tablespoon in one of those 400ml spray bottles.
Give it a good shake before use.
Usually spray on once the parts are together.

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Repaired, not pretty however the bolt fits and it resembles the one in the brochure!
Thanks for everyone’s advice…onward and upward :slight_smile:

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