So it’s running, and it’s running great! Cutting at 1500mm/m 1.5mm depth of pass. First cut had me scared of the world of post processing cnc cuts, but changed to a decent and sharp bit and what a world of a difference.
Klipper is super easy, the scare that has been hyped up isn’t founded to be honest. There are a few things you have to do differently, but it’s really not bad at all. If more people weren’t scared away from it there’d be a lot more CNC friendly information out there for it.
Overall, I’m super happy. I’m cutting out my strut plates now and they are clean and accurate. I’ve also got a Manta M5P on order to clean up my electronics a bit and give myself dual Z (instead of the shared Z I have currently with the Skr Mini E3V3).
Happy to share my Klipper knowledge and guide others who want to go down that path.
I am halfway done installing the strut plates… and boy does this feel like a punishment, a very personal punishment. I wish I had seen the captured nuts remix of the struts before I printed all these. I was very excited about being able to swap out strut plates in the future, but I think something catastrophic would need to happen to get me to ever take these strut plates off again. Highly recommend anybody building one new, use the strut remix with all the nuts captured, you will thank yourself later!
Yup that’s what I did, less suffering but still suffering haha. Also disappointed that I had to pull one side of the gantry apart, remove the x belt and slide the core off to get the front one on. The whole thing was a pain now my back hurts, my fingers hurt, and I don’t ever want to do that again haha. If I do, I’m going to get some captive nut struts printed and have a nut glued in ahead of time.
Outside of those items, should the hole on the Y belt holders line up with the limit switch to adjust for skew? Mine don’t and it has me a bit confused what those holes are for if not for that.
Still super impressed with everything, excited for all the future projects it’ll be put through!
I actually installed the struts without taking a side off.
Is this what you’re talking about? If so, mine don’t line up either. The hole is in between the belt and the metal part of the switch. Not sure what the hole is for.
Yup those are the ones, i might remix them so a set screw can be installed for skew adjustment. And yeah the struts pop in without removal, but that front plate I couldn’t slide the strut plate between the struts and the core without removing the core.
Guessed they’re for screwing on shim(s) to correct for skew, or maybe help physically stop the gantry without the endstop swing arm take full force of the machine if the gantry should end up making full contact with the Y belt holders if the Y endstop and firmware don’t appropriate halt motion? If for skew, guessing that adjustment screws are not needed/mentioned because of the skew correction possible in firmware using M666, https://docs.v1e.com/lowrider/#initial-squaring?
Threw together a new dust boot to help with collection. Just modified the V1E bottom part to add a track that my TPU printed bristles slide into. Probably could have printed the bristles a little closer together, but I’m sure it’s better than nothing. Maybe the next one.
I also printed an extension for my shopvac hose. The hose itself was a loose fit but the outer diameter also didn’t fit straight down, so extruded a pipe extension with an angle at the top for easy insert and removal for running it across the workpiece after by hand
Test the board out. I got a M5P and 4 out of the 5 driver ports are bad. I’m still ‘working’ with BTT to get a replacement. Maybe some day I will. haha
Yup I’ll test it out before I put it on the machine. I’ve got dozens of BTT boards, most have been flawless the only issue I had was with a BTT Pi that had a fried 3.5v circuit. But they replaced it after 2 responses through email. Honestly, they’ve always been really responsive to me, of course in the middle of the night cause of their time zone. I’m not sure why they would be giving you such a rough time, hope you get it sorted!
You planning to use your M5P on the LW or a printer you have?
Probably a spare for one of the printers i have. Using the Jackpot and i like it. Getting used to the workflow. BTT just keeps emailing me asking for more info. Including what i had already provided them. Sounds like my last email with them cleared things up.
I think for the final table, I’m going to go with something in between what @DougJoseph and @Fabien have done. I like how Doug’s belts are completely hidden even from catching it on the side but I don’t love the price of unistrut. I like how Fabien’s approach is a 1 part mod that has the belt almost flat along the sides but I don’t like the idea of catching it by accident since it’s still exposed.
My best of both worlds idea is something like this, a remix of Doug’s table with a remix of Fabien’s mount keeps the belt hidden and protected by the rail that the bearing rides along. Still easy to get to but more protected. Should work the same on the other side as well.
It’s still a “two parts” approach though, so if you want to have a single-part solution like my v2 design, you would have to remix it
Theorically it’s just a matter of adjusting the spacing between the motor and idlers
I’ll try and see if my current parameters allow for such customization and can provide the f3d file if you want, but I can’t open f360 until later tonight
