Yes it is quite standard, you can find chromed wardrobe bar up to 2 meters in 25mm and 18mm in any serious hardware store.
Common plumbing copper pipe exists in 4meters ID 16mm OD 18mm but maybe to much soft…
For 3 or 4 meters in iron you need to shop it online to steel suppliers, it is about 17€ for 3 meters + 19€ shipment fees 
Oh! It did not even occur to me that they could just be stretched!
That should work pretty well then!
I will be posting the CAD/Fusion360 files so minor edits are easy. Scaling the small one up or the long one up or down is pretty easy. Adding braces is easy, but it messes with the cutouts a bit, but lots of options this way.
I can post a bunch of different sizes as the need comes up.
75-80% nozzle diamter.
Not yet waiting for my shipment.
It can be just needs to be 18.1mm-25.4mm let me know what you want I can make an 18mm if that is inexpensive for you (and kinda smooth).
Yes, scheduled for today ASAP.
17 is a bit small what is the next size up?
a 25mm would be nice, that way the rail can be kept from the L2 
Ender 3, optimal layer size increase in.04 increments, so in your case .32, which is what I usually run with a .4 nozzle when I want something quick.
Could you maybe make a 25 and 18mm for us Europeans? That would be swell. Otherwise we could just scale it in the slicer, right? Those parts are not really that sophisicated, the screw hole is movable anyway, right?
I will do a 25, the 18p1 is probably fine.
How much filament are we looking at for printing the parts? I may have missed that somewhere.
A little over 2kg. with everything.
May be a little off topic but how does one come up with the pattern(s) in a strut? @SupraGuy came up with a design with ovals in it. What do I give up if I just use a solid piece without any oval/triangle holes? I have a feeling that its not just for the aesthetics. Is it to reduce the weight or is it able to handle the compression/tension better?
Doesn’t matter but it is real nice to be able to get your fingers in there for all sorts of reasons. Holding the nuts, stuffing wires in, places to connect them.
Follow up question on the strut design.
Does it need to be solid wood, or could one use 5mm polycarbonate / acrylic too?
Even better!
The absolute strongest struts would be made of solid sheets, yes, but the difference between solid and ‘skeletonized’ sheets is minimal (you compromise absolute strength but the effect on stiffness is hardly noticeable). Nearly all the stiffness of the sheet comes from the outer perimeter and as long as you can hold that in place( via the cross-bracing) it doesn’t matter that you cut it full of holes.
Concept is similar to the difference between solid square bar and hollow square tubing. All of the stiffness comes from the outer skin and as long as the material doesn’t buckle/deform any added thickness is just extra weight.
Do you have a system measurements diagram like this one from the calculator page but for the side/vertical orientation? I’d like to see how to adapt my existing emt rails on my modified LR2 to the new design. My rail heights are different relative to the table and I’d need to account for that in creating custom side plates.
I’m not sure what you are asking for. I can’t imagine using a rail at any other height would be a good idea. I can’t make a complete set of drawing for this but I can help a bit. At least until I finish getting the rest of the standard parts released.
I have side-mounted rails lower than the spoilboard surface of the table (to allow easier use when not CNC-ing for taking sheets on and off without obstruction). I’d like to try to adapt the LR3 side plates to add some vertical space to account for this rather than change the table.
How much of the 80mm Z area will that eat up? The LR3 comes off the table, so it might be a better idea to leave that and just mount the LR3 rail as intended?
What exact dimension do you need? Rail height from the table is dependent on the diameter. It mounts against 2 tangent surfaces, so it is not exactly an easy one to specify.
