A little over 2kg. with everything.
May be a little off topic but how does one come up with the pattern(s) in a strut? @SupraGuy came up with a design with ovals in it. What do I give up if I just use a solid piece without any oval/triangle holes? I have a feeling that its not just for the aesthetics. Is it to reduce the weight or is it able to handle the compression/tension better?
Doesn’t matter but it is real nice to be able to get your fingers in there for all sorts of reasons. Holding the nuts, stuffing wires in, places to connect them.
Follow up question on the strut design.
Does it need to be solid wood, or could one use 5mm polycarbonate / acrylic too?
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Even better!
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The absolute strongest struts would be made of solid sheets, yes, but the difference between solid and ‘skeletonized’ sheets is minimal (you compromise absolute strength but the effect on stiffness is hardly noticeable). Nearly all the stiffness of the sheet comes from the outer perimeter and as long as you can hold that in place( via the cross-bracing) it doesn’t matter that you cut it full of holes.
Concept is similar to the difference between solid square bar and hollow square tubing. All of the stiffness comes from the outer skin and as long as the material doesn’t buckle/deform any added thickness is just extra weight.
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Do you have a system measurements diagram like this one from the calculator page but for the side/vertical orientation? I’d like to see how to adapt my existing emt rails on my modified LR2 to the new design. My rail heights are different relative to the table and I’d need to account for that in creating custom side plates.
I’m not sure what you are asking for. I can’t imagine using a rail at any other height would be a good idea. I can’t make a complete set of drawing for this but I can help a bit. At least until I finish getting the rest of the standard parts released.
I have side-mounted rails lower than the spoilboard surface of the table (to allow easier use when not CNC-ing for taking sheets on and off without obstruction). I’d like to try to adapt the LR3 side plates to add some vertical space to account for this rather than change the table.
How much of the 80mm Z area will that eat up? The LR3 comes off the table, so it might be a better idea to leave that and just mount the LR3 rail as intended?
What exact dimension do you need? Rail height from the table is dependent on the diameter. It mounts against 2 tangent surfaces, so it is not exactly an easy one to specify.
I guess the only easy one to specify is the YZ plate is 5mm from the surface if that helps.
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Added some 6061 plate option to the shop. LowRider 3 Metal XZ Plates – V1 Engineering Inc Steel ones are on the way.
Added the XZ dxf to printables and just about to add them to the docs with dimension details.
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What if you just repositioned one of the Z endstops so it is level after homing? Would that not solve it?
The lower side? It would but it looks to eat up about 30% of travel, making it 30% taller probably makes it significantly less rigid. I strongly urge anyone that is wanting to make this thing any taller to also add a second set of bearing blocks to every rail, that means also modding the XZ plates. 80mm is good. much more and it absolutely needs more support.
In the other thread we discussed the bearing specs, this started with 2 blocks on every rail. I capped it lower 80mm just so we could save all that extra money on more bearings.
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Hey crew ! I have a custom O.D. to my conduit and i would like to make the LR3 soon but it doesn’t seem to fit but my build will always stretch.
What’s thee inner measurements for these parts that hold onto the conduit in the imagines ? In addition i have included the O.D metal bar size and also did a mockup of the "rail- block 25 " ;its a printed part from the LR3 Print which i made bigger @ the percentage of 105.6 % . Depending on how these pieces fit it will better help me moving forward also if anyone has made adjustments please let me know peace!!
I’d rather not eat up any Z… that’s why I’d like to modify the side plates to compensate for this difference
It’s possible but the actual table is exactly 4x8 and I mounted the rails protruding from the sides and exteding long enough to make it a true 4x8 cutting area. I’d lose full-sheet capability with the LR3 way and would have to take the rail and belt on and off each time I used it for non-cnc purposes rather than just parking the LR at the end like I do now.
Yes! That should definitely help, thanks!
That is really awesome!
I took that .scad file and started playing around with it.
Would it help anyone to print temporary plates as modules? Like this:
(Flippable, just print as many as you need) for a 1400MM span, just print 7 identical parts, then when you can cut the final plates just swap them all out…
Not nearly as elegant as what @vicious1 designed for the temporary plate- but it could allow you to make a full span set without too much effort on a printer.
The code is ugly as can be because I’m still wrapping my head around what @jamiek did here… but:
Doesn’t look like I can attach a .3mf or a .scad here in the forum. .scad is too ugly to share without me cleaning it up, but this would fit most 3D printers’ beds.
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That will work, kinda, and we did discuss it in the beta. It will not be as useful as a complete plate though. The rails are not actually doing anything but helping with twist here. The plates do most of the work. You can use those instead of my temporary plates if you like.
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You could print the module as a routing template and use the slots/keyholes to accurately locate the template as you work along the blank. In that way you could build the permanent part before you started, just using your router, and save the dismantle step.
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I got some of these in the mail. I haven’t installed them yet, but they look and feel great.