Also, check that the knob can still click. Common issue on screen cases.
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One thing that I had no way of knowing from looking at photos was how tall the reset protrusion sticks up off the PCB, and therefore very little to go on in the designing of the reset button. So if you find that it needs tweaks, I would not be surprised. Please let me know what you find on that and I will do my best to adjust accordingly.
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Good point. If the axle for the knob does not protrude far enough outside the case, preventing the knob from doing its click feature, then the screw standoffs could be shortened, and the rectangular standoff ridge for the screen could also be shortened, effectively getting the PCB closer to the case. This would have downstream ramifications regarding the design of the reset button as well.
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I sort of assembled it. I needed a 1.6mm spacer for the resetbutton to work (without spacer it is pushedcontinuously)
The menu knob is a bit offcentre (margin left 3.5 mm, right 7mm up 4mm, down 6mm, so ideally it should be placed 3.5 mm to the right and 1 mm down)
The red spacer on the left is 1.6 mm. 1.8 is too large, gap between screen and lid, 1.2 mm and the reset button gets stuck. I think it is best to make the resetbutton a bit longer and deeper.
Menuknob fits and can be turned and pushed
It looks like the usb port is missing on the pcb
Oh no! It’s not missing, its at the wrong place
Many thanks for helping me out! I like the collaboration and the support!
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Thanks for the pics and feedback. Will try to revise later on.
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OK, I revised the TFT Holder and Reset Button, based on all your feedback, and additional realizations from your helpful photos.
I had the back of the PCB unintentionally mirrored in my model, which explains why I had the USB input port on the wrong side, and was mistakenly thinking the tall black sockets were on the opposite side. In addition to realizing that, which I addressed, I also did my best to take all your other feedback into consideration.
To get those tall black sockets moved further into the holder (and the connectors that get plugged into them positioned into the holder), I extended the back of the holder and moved everything further into the recess. That gained something like 13mm of additional “headroom.” I also gained another 1.5mm of headroom by using a factor of 1.5mm in shortening both the screw hole standoffs, and the rectangular ridge standoff for the screen. I also deepened the recess of the reset button by both the 1.8mm you mentioned (I rounded up to 2mm) plus the aforementioned 1.5mm, so 3.5mm total. I also corrected the placement of the large hole for the knob axle protrusion.
I’m reasonably hopeful this revision will be the golden goose for you, although I’m not 100% it will all fit right now. If you are willing to to print again, I think you will be pleased and do request additional feedback on it.
The download page on Printables has been updated:
https://www.printables.com/model/235351-lowrider-3-cnc-control-box-case-for-btt-skr-pro-12
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Printing!
I tried to print a new lid. Something went wrong. I’m going to try again tonight when ^^^is ready
Hey, I did not make any changes to the lid. No need to print another unless something was wrong with the first one you had.
I had the old lid with only 2 holes.
Ah, got it. Sorry about that.
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One possible option: measure, mark and drill holes in the old lid to accommodate the new holder.
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I had a couple of bumps on my road yesterday… used wrong stl, printer not working right, to much work to do, extra rehearsal of my musical group…
Just started another try, now with the right stl, to print the tft holder.
@DougJoseph no need to be sorry!
Will try to make a hole marker this afternoon or tomorrow.
It fits like a glove now!
The holes in the back of the tft holder for turning the upper screws of the screen were missing in this version. I had to drill them myself.
Right now i am printing a drill guide to drill new holes in the lid.
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Ugh, I forgot to re-add those access holes! Sorry. Will fix that. Glad all else was good.
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Neat case, cheers for sharing, looks popular.
Recommend printing with PLA, PETG or something else?
Anyone using full, or partial sheet metal cases to avoid/reduce need for fans?
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I have fixed the accidental lack of access holes. Accordingly, I have updated the listing on Printables to remove the “work in progress” tags and to finalize the listing as a usable set of parts. Many thanks to @kockie-nl for collaboration on this, which increases options for other LowRider 3 makers everywhere. Also, @kockie-nl, I hope it’s OK that I used some of your latest pics to illustrate the TFT holder on the listing.
https://www.printables.com/model/235351-lowrider-3-cnc-control-box-case-for-btt-skr-pro-12
PLA is great for this. I used the same print settings (same number of perimeter walls and percent of infill) as for the majority of the LowRider 3 printed pieces.
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The fans may not be totally necessary. Likely are not needed. Ryan’s original design does not call for fans. You could make this and just ignore the fan inlet and mount holes, or you could remix and delete the holes. I personally like the added air flow.
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Note: I have now posted the NON-E3 version of the case and TFT holder in its own listing available here: LowRider 3 CNC - control box case for BTT SKR Pro 1.2 board and a BTT TFT35 (NON-E3) touchscreen (v1.3.1)
For any future feedback re. the NON-E3 version, it should probably be given there as opposed to here. Thanks @kockie-nl again for your collaboration.
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Are the .step files available? Would like to shed some weight, print time and heat. My single Ender3 has to run slow to be reliable. Fusion (free) loves to hang when converting mesh to body, can’t handle all those triangles 
Air flow sounds good and heat dissipation in general, saw other posts where folks encountered drivers overheating causing jobs to unexpectedly pause/fail. Bought couple of Noctua fans via your link, cheers!
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