What your steps are off a tiny bit? That doesn’t seem right. Should be a whole number.
1 Like
Well, it could be out a bit on an MP3DP with belted Z… I have had pretty good luck with my belts personally.
1 Like
Parts > Print Core > Attempt #2 Success
Completely my fault, I calibrated Z using a pathetically small 20mm cube. The irony is that after calibrating again my Z rotation/esteps are back to 32. Related Klipper config edits.
Checked Z height this time by homing XYZ, Z-tilting, then moving Z axis to largest distance possible that could still be accurately measured from the bed. Ended up using the Attempt #1 Core and some other objects as measuring sticks…
2mm thin core slice from new printer matches 1yr old Core from diff printer close enough. Kicked off Attempt #2…
Update: Attempt #2 in-progress. Consider Stick On Temp Gauge on Steppers mounted to PLA. Back when I first saw Stick On Temp Gauges, I laughed and thought they were a bit gimmicky. Today’s different, while observing a long running print, the stickers gave me useful information to not overly enclose and smother the printer. The nice and quieter snuggly towel wrapped printer quickly started to heat up with steppers getting to a point that would be an issue for PLA mounts. So, although am using PETG, have unwrapped and left the front open until if/when am using higher temp materials (ASA?).
Update: Attempt #2 done. Looks great. More importantly, dimensions and layer adhesion are great.
5 Likes
Now you have a core for destructive testing…
2 Likes
Put a router in it and tighten the mount as tight as you can. Bet it splits in half LOL
Plan / Design > Router Power and Control
Short: Bought NOYITO 4-Channel Relay Module, 5V trigger, Optocoupler Isolation, Load DC 30V AC 250V 30A to control power to Routers (and maybe other stuff) via Controller board’s Fan pins.
Long:
Enabling gcode to control power to each Router individually would be nice. @srcnet shared link to Enclosed High-Power Power Relay for Arduino, Raspberry Pi, PIC or WiFi, Relay Shield, looks neat, I hadn’t looked at before. Dug around the forum and found several folks seem to like and recommend this solution for easy and relatively safely controlling power to Mains powered devices. Dug around for product info:
- https://www.digital-loggers.com/iot2spec.pdf
- Dimensions 170.0mm x 95.0mm x 35.0mm / 6.7" x 3.7" x 1.4"
Until now, have been turning Router on and off manually, guessing most people do, it’s easy. Originally had lofty goals of adding a relay, and PID speed control. But as usual, got distracted and ended up prioritizing other stuff… Despite this track record, instead of doing the quick safe option mentioned above, am going to try a 4-channel 5V triggered 30A rated Relay Module hooked up to my Octopus’s Fan ports. 4-channels instead of just 2, because might end-up achieving lofty goals of hooking up Vac, cooling, lights, lasers, etc… Have to make an enclosure at this point, so may as well include space for futures.
- Was considering SSR, but they seem too reliable and pricey for things that needs relatively infrequent on/off switching?
- Saw AMZN’s best selling HiLetgo OptoCoupler Relay Module is rated at 10A, which was too close to the Router’s 7A for me.
Related
- Help need to setup spindle control
- Great read, detailed recommendations. Thank you @robertbu!
- Solid State Relay to control Spindle
- Consider Enclosed High-Power Power Relay for Arduino, Raspberry Pi, PIC or WiFi, Relay Shield it’s less dangerous than dealing with Relay Modules.
- Air Assist for Laser using Lightburn & Rambo
- Troubleshooting Router Power switched by an IOT relay
6 Likes
In general, “Horizontal Scaling” designs are great, but this…
Parts > Unboxing
@vicious1, thank you kindly for the “IDEX Kit #1” bag and other goodies, including the JackPot collectors edition pcb, nice! 
5 Likes
That’s awesome!
Looking forward to watching your modification.
2 Likes
I am eagerly waiting for you to tell me this works so I can do it.
1 Like
Looks like I need to get off my butt and finish enabling Marlin on Jackpot. Once the 2209 serial multiplexing is sorted, it’s all solved and IDEX will work, guaranteed.
On FluidNC it is theoretically possible.
1 Like
Am sticking with Marlin on Octopus for this LR3 upgrade to IDEX. Looking forward to using Jackpot for future project…
3 Likes
Assembly > Core > Fast (un)Mount potential?
Err, am I the last person to realize the LR3 Core can be mounted and unmounted without having to remove XZ plate from Gantry’s end brace? Can just add/remove two of the top bearings.
Longer term, thinking about belt length adjusting quick’sh release X belt holder mod, and/or right leadscrew stub mod…
3 Likes
Like the quick release x belt thought - don’t quite understand the leadscrew stub mod?
1 Like
This would be a cool feature so you can remove it if you need your whole cut volume again
2 Likes
Ryan recommended in another thread to remove the lower two bearings in order to remove the core without disassembling the gantry
2 Likes
But the upper bearings are a lot more accessible if that works!
2 Likes
@jamiek and/or any other LR3 IDEX builders out there, curious if you have any related models/ideas I can use to help with wiring/vac mounting and splitting? Have been digging thru Jamie’s IDEX build.
There was a recent topic with an impressive mother of all drag chains that encapsulated a Vac hose and wiring for Y axis. Impressive work. For now, am going for just enough effort to function.
You and me both. Am still figuring out if/how to allow quick’sh release via belt holder / stub / X drive mod(s). E.g. Mod X drive to have channel cutout for belt to slip on/off. Then make a removable belt clamping clip that cinches/tensions belt close to right XZ plate. Still thinking/experimenting…
Cheers!
4 Likes
I’m wondering if it’s possible to get an over-centre lever in the space available… The clip below isn’t applicable, but it might just inspire a different thought. I’ll have a bit of a sketch and a think (in that order!)
2 Likes