Looking for a 110v Spindle

Doing some searching on Amazon for a 110v spindle and ran across this:

Shouldn’t the VFD and Spindle be the same voltage?

I don’t think that Amazon’s suggestions make sense. Like, no, I don’t need another toaster next to the one I am just now buying… :smile:
Maybe the VFD can change the voltage though? Not sure. Someone with a plan might be able to tell you though. :yum:

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Hi, you are selecting a 220v spindle with a 110v VFD, tyey will not work together.

Look for a Huang yang 65mm spindle kit with the same black (dark) vfd -it is for sure tested with fluidnc and easy to wire. (You will need an RS485 module from Bart tindie store if you want software control of your spindle)

Imo you should not beed a spindle but if you must: dont buy an 80mm version. A 65mm 1.5kw should be plenty

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I just searched that VFD and spindle on Amazon, on the pages for both of those you can select either 110v and 220v units. So make sure your selections are compatible with each other.
On a different note, 2.2K watt is pushing the limit for a standard 110v household circuit, so you’d want a dedicated circuit with it’s own breaker to ensure reliable operation.

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This was on a page for a spindle I was looking at. I didn’t select them, it showed they were being purchased together by other people, which is why I was questioning it.

Awesome, I’ll check into that spindle and vfd. I don’t necessarily “need” it, but this winter the LR4 will be in my basement and then move to the garage next summer. Mostly it’s for noise, although I’ve read on here that the dust collection will be just as loud as a router so I’m still debating.

Will do on the 80mm, I’ll keep that in mind! Thank you!!

You should be looking for a 65mm spindle.

Just a little food for thought when looking at stuff labeled 110 volts versus 120. Back in the 50s or 60s we used 110. As electronics come out the demand started getting higher. Now everything in the states is 120 volts and 240 volts. In some of the industrial places I work in 125 is normal. As you use more electricity the voltage will drop because of the power demand but you really have to pull a lot of power.

Yeah, that definitely wouldn’t work well together. You could run a 220V spindle off a 110V output but it would be SEVERELY compromised in terms of power.

Just to clarify a few things, input voltage and output voltage aren’t necessarily linked in VFDs.

The one shown is 110V in, 110V out. There will be others available that are 110V in, 220V out.

As for the usable power, I’d say that it’s unlikely that you’d actually end up drawing that much power in practice. Some of it will go to heat loss but a spindle with no load will run at dramatically lower power than a spindle that’s cutting hard. I doubt any machine built or any toolpaths that will be run will get all that close to the 2.2kW rating. Assuming ~80% efficient for the VFD and more like 1kW of actual real load, I’d personally be comfortable trying that out to begin with, at least, on a 120V 15A plug/socket.

@Michael_Robinson In this case it’s more of a nomenclature issue. That device is specified for 110Vac ± 15% which is 94V to 127V. The ‘official’ US mains voltage is 120V ±6% which is 113V to 127V. So it’s not just a case of comparing nominal voltages, it’s worth checking the tolerance/input range as well.

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Just another note in addition to the earlier mentions that

  • you can get a VFD that takes 110v (120v) in, but provides 220v (240v) out…
  • and that you would want to be looking for a spindle that’s 65 mm in diameter, not 80 mm…

I recently found a set (VFD and spindle) that’s 110v in, 220v out, 65 mm, air cooled, and I ordered it. I also found a water cooled variant from the same company, and because I am going to wind up with two LR4’s, and because I planned on making a video comparing air cooled and water cooled, I bought the water cooled one too.

Here is a link to the post by me giving a link and info about the former purchase, and a little ways down is a link posting by me to the latter purchase. The whole thread is good, by the way.

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Yeah, I always get corrected when I say 110. Both my Dad and Grandfather were electricians and they would say 110 as a hold over from previous days gone by. I just got used to hearing them say it.

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This must be the same one from Amazon: G Penny Spindle

@DougJoseph if it arrives soon enough let me know how it goes. I might still be in the process of building my machine. I’m still up in the air though and might just get the Makita and be done with it. My thought is if I drop $150 on that router though, what’s another $100 to just get a spindle.

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I was looking for the same as well. First hadn’t checked any dimensions, but then realized after measuring the makita mount that you would want 65 mm.
Here’s one that should work: Amazon.com: CNC Spindle Motor Kits, 110V 1.5KW Air Cooled Spindle CNC Spindle +110V 1.5KW VFD+Φ65mm Clamp Mount +Collet Set ER11+ Drill bits+ Wires+ Wrenches for CNC Router Machine : Automotive

Only issue is people mentioning in the reviews that it doesn’t have as much torque and can stall on heavy loads. Especially one review comparing it to the makita router and saying it performed worse than that. So, now I am questioning all of these spindles.

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I am in the same boat as you but ended up going with the makita router in the end.

I would say do read the reviews for these spindles. They might not be worth the extra cost. From what I summarize, the spindle will be less noisy but lower in power as well compared to the router. So, is less noise worth $100?

Also, think about the heat. Most reviewers aren’t using this with a 3d printed part so they don’t care how hot it gets. But for LR4 that is also another thing you have to account for. Wish there would be water cooled versions in the 65mm category that might have been worth it.

I’m starting to think just deal with the noise for now and if I REALLY want the spindle after it gets moved to the garage then do it. Decisions, decisions :wink:

120, 121… Whatever it takes.

I think the terms are interchangeable these days. Just don’t confuse 220 with 208.

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Hi! I have a very similar spindle/VFD for my LR3. I have this kit RATTMMOTOR 2.2KW Water Cooled Spindle Kits 110V Spindle Motor 80mm 24000RPM+2.2KW VFD 110V Inverter 3HP Variable Frequency Drive+Spindle Mount+80W Water Pump+ER20 Collet for CNC Router Milling Machine - Amazon.com and I have been using it for a year or so.

The issue I have now is the LR4 needs a 65mm spindle, so I am looking for a 110v 65mm water cooled spindle so I can switch it out for my upgrade but I haven’t found one quite yet. I would prefer to go water cooled because I have it plumbed in already and I think it is a little quieter. Though I am really interested to see the outcome from Doug’s experiment comparing the air cooled and water cooled versions.

I would not get that posted spindle for the LR4 as I was strongly advised against using an 80mm spindle for the LR4 upgrade.

I also agree that you have to make sure you match your voltages. The kit that I linked for my vfd and spindle are 110v in > vfd >110v out > 110v Spindle. In retrospect I should have done 110v > vfd > 220v > 220v spindle, as it seems 220v spindles are easier to find.

I will have to downgrade from a 2.2kw spindle to a 1.5kw spindle, but honestly I was never limited by the spindle and it never bogged down the tiniest bit. I think the 1.5kw will still be limited by the frame and will be plenty strong.

Just my $0.02

This is a good way to go! Use something that is known good from a vast majority of the forum and widely supported. Get your machine up and running and learn it. Then when you have a lot more experiance with it, and if you still want the spindle, take the plunge then. A router sitting around ready to use for other tasks is never a waste :partying_face:

Couldn’t you just expand the router mount to 80mm?

The LR3 wasn’t designed for an 80mm spindle either. My understanding is it’s not recommended because the spindle is not a bottleneck, and that extra distance from the core is adding stress.

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80mm will not fit without MAJOR modification on the LR4. A few made them fit on the LR3 but it still wasn’t a real good situation. If you are stalling a trim router or even a 1.5kw 65mm spindle then you are setting your cam up way wrong and no way you are getting accurate cuts. There is no good reason at all to run a 2.2kw 80mm spindle.

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